Kawasaki Brute Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have not ridden this quad much the last few years but my sons are now done playing high school sports and want to get back into it. I am going through each of the quads as thoroughly as I can. I am not familiar enough with mechanical issues yet with some advice, can usually find my way. This site was very helpful to me in the past so I would like your advice as I struggle through.

Our bike has 1390 miles on it and 107 hours. All the fluids have been changed and I am moving onto the clutches.

I have checked the deflection on the belt in the past and it was fine. The last ride we took last summer, the belt light came on. It was running fine so we figured it was just the 100 hour warning but we were done anyway. I was planning on removing the primary and secondary for a good cleaning and replacing the belt. However, I think the belt looks good and the clutches aren't bad. Would you remove the clutches to clean or just the clean the faces? Do you think the belt should be replaced?

Here' a picture. TIA


Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting Automotive tire Tire Hood
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,187 Posts
We have not ridden this quad much the last few years but my sons are now done playing high school sports and want to get back into it. I am going through each of the quads as thoroughly as I can. I am not familiar enough with mechanical issues yet with some advice, can usually find my way. This site was very helpful to me in the past so I would like your advice as I struggle through.

Our bike has 1390 miles on it and 107 hours. All the fluids have been changed and I am moving onto the clutches.

I have checked the deflection on the belt in the past and it was fine. The last ride we took last summer, the belt light came on. It was running fine so we figured it was just the 100 hour warning but we were done anyway. I was planning on removing the primary and secondary for a good cleaning and replacing the belt. However, I think the belt looks good and the clutches aren't bad. Would you remove the clutches to clean or just the clean the faces? Do you think the belt should be replaced?

Here' a picture. TIA


View attachment 8414
I think it's a matter of preference. The belt, although has about half the milage life left in it with average riding, the age is catching up with it. Dry rot will be setting in soon if not already...its 10 years old now. As cheap as Kawie belts are I would change it and keep this one for a spare. Clutches...I always pull them for full service cleaning and inspection but most don't...they just run them until they need replacing. At least blow everything out with air and make sure all the flyweight pins rotate with your fingers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good advice. I am going to replace the belt. I did blow everything out with air but since I have never pulled the clutches I was a bit reluctant. I will look for a good video to pull them and give them a full service cleaning. I did some clutch work on a Can Am several years ago but there was a video for exactly what I was doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
While I am waiting on a new belt, I thought I would move on to the valve adjustment. Any tips to getting access to the front cylinder valves? I removed the front fender but it still seems very tight. Watched a few videos too but if anyone has some things I should know, I would appreciate the advice.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,187 Posts
While I am waiting on a new belt, I thought I would move on to the valve adjustment. Any tips to getting access to the front cylinder valves? I removed the front fender but it still seems very tight. Watched a few videos too but if anyone has some things I should know, I would appreciate the advice.
On my 2006 I found it impossible to contort my old bones to do the front cylinder without removing the air box and front deflector. If it was on a lift of some kind it may be more do-able. I was able to leave the front plastics on though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I removed the air box but I am working with some old bones myself! I enjoy working on my things but hate it when I'm in areas that don't have much room. I once got stuck in the bilge of my boat and it took me a good 15 - 20 minutes to wiggle my way back out.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,187 Posts
I removed the air box but I am working with some old bones myself! I enjoy working on my things but hate it when I'm in areas that don't have much room. I once got stuck in the bilge of my boat and it took me a good 15 - 20 minutes to wiggle my way back out.
That would suck. I got a little stuck in the crawl space on one of my rentals and with my touch of claustrophobia, it was a bit tough..for a few minutes. Lots of choice words kept my mind off it...lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I adjusted the valves today. The rear cylinder was reasonable but the front was a real struggle. The exhaust valves were pretty tight but I think I was able to get a .008 inch feeler gauge in there. The end of the valve has a small square shape and was so tight I couldn't turn it at all with my fingers. I am going to re-check it again tomorrow.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top