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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On the rear cylinder, I had to replace a bent valve and piston rings (since I had it tore down that far). I also took out the front cam to check it. With things apart I had rotated the crankshaft to look at things. When I put everything back together, I timed it according to my service manual using the timing makes behind the Stator and gears. First I made sure the front piston was up and I aligned the shaft keyway with the front cylinder timing mark on the left side of the engine and checked that the mark on the lower cam gear (right side of the engine behind the torque converter) aligned with the pointer and installed the front cam with the arrow on the cam pointed up and the cam gear marks level with the top of the head. I then rotated the shaft to the alignment mark for the rear cylinder (with the piston up) and installed the rear cam with the arrow pointed up and the cam gear marks level with the top of the head (sorry if this is too much info).

Once everything was closed up I tried to start the engine and it wont even attempt to start. I checked and I do have spark (at least on the rear cylinder) and I put a little gas down the throat of each carb (since the air filter box was removed already). But nothing!!! I'm at a loss as far as what is going on. I tore things back down again and re-checked timing and all looked good still.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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OK, lets try it a little easier and see. Pull the timing mark plug out and the belt cover off so you can rotate the engine with the primary. Pull the plugs too. Pull the front top cap so you can see the marks on the cam gear. Now rotate the engine by hand in its normal direction watching the intake valves. When you see them go down, continue until they come back up. Now continue rotating the engine about a half of a turn and line up the TF mark through the timing hole on the pointer. Now take a look at the marks on the cam gear. Are they level with the deck edge? If not, make it so. If so check the valve lash on all valves, set as necessary and button it up. Now do the same with the rear except you will rotate up to the TR mark on timing hole.

If all is right and it still won't run, test the compression and maybe do a leak-down test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will try that tomorrow.. BTW the left and right engine covers are already removed and I did adjust the valves prior to attempting to start.. I also did a compressible check on both cylinders.. The front was about 110psi and the rear was about 50psi..both held pressure for about an hour
 

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I will try that tomorrow.. BTW the left and right engine covers are already removed and I did adjust the valves prior to attempting to start.. I also did a compressible check on both cylinders.. The front was about 110psi and the rear was about 50psi..both held pressure for about an hour
Then there is something wrong with the front. 36-66 if the compression release is working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you don't mind me asking... How did the decompression weights on the cam actually lower the cylinder compression.. I've never seen this before and just trying to understand
 

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If you don't mind me asking... How did the decompression weights on the cam actually lower the cylinder compression.. I've never seen this before and just trying to understand
There is a shaft inside the cam with a button that when the weights are retracted, as in below 400rpm, it makes a "bump" spot on the exhaust valve during the compression stroke releasing part of the compression. When above 400 rpm the button is rotated away and no compression is released. This video shows one of Kawasaki's releases and is slightly different then what's on the BF, but you get the idea. Because yours is not working on one cylinder tends to say it's not releasing at the right time...as in 180 out..maybe.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Then there is something wrong with the front. 36-66 if the compression release is working correctly.
OK, I removed the front head (one with the high compression) lapped the valves since it was off the engine. Put everything back together now the compressions on the front cylinder is very close to the rear cylinder. I really didnt do anything to the front cylinder other than put the head in my ultrasonic cleaner for an hour. Still at a loss as to why the cylinder was so high, but not complaining..
 
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