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The normal operating temp for thr Brute is somewhere between 180 to 210. Your fan will come on around 210 and pull the temp down to 180 before turning off. The gauge is an Autometer silverlite, part number 4337. You can get it from anywhere that sell's performance parts for cars and truck's. The best part about using this gauge is it's only $40.00 verses $100.00 for the Highlifter brand gauge like most people use and Autometer is the one's that make the gauge for Highlifter!
 

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Originally posted by Bigmike750
The normal operating temp for thr Brute is somewhere between 180 to 210. Your fan will come on around 210 and pull the temp down to 180 before turning off. The gauge is an Autometer silverlite, part number 4337. You can get it from anywhere that sell's performance parts for cars and truck's. The best part about using this gauge is it's only $40.00 verses $100.00 for the Highlifter brand gauge like most people use and Autometer is the one's that make the gauge for Highlifter![/b]
I have seen the Autometer silverlite on ebay go for $26. Thank you for all your help.
 

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Originally posted by Sasquatch
Awsome install job! Is the gauge fully sealed?[/b]
No the gauge isn't sealed but it only seem's to fog up when I wash the quad after a ride.
 

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well I got my temp gauge installed. The hole install only cost me $10
Yes I do know i have a small leak.
 

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were did you get your gage kit ? like to put one on my 650I but dont want to drill for the sending unit. i dont mind cutting a hose.
 

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For what its worth drilling out the thermostat housing is a piece of cake. The end result is a lot cleaner/neater. [attachment=261:100_2010.JPG]
 

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For what its worth drilling out the thermostat housing is a piece of cake. The end result is a lot cleaner/neater. [attachment=261:100_2010.JPG][/b][/b]
Wonder if I should have patented the idea? LOL!
 

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Bigmike, patened or not, all I can say is thanks for sharing your idea, and giving instruction and reassurance
 

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were did you get your gage kit ? like to put one on my 650I but dont want to drill for the sending unit. i dont mind cutting a hose.[/b][/b]
I got my gauge from Walmart for $8.00 and the T fitting form the hardware store.
 

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Bigmike, patened or not, all I can say is thanks for sharing your idea, and giving instruction and reassurance[/b][/b]
Glad to help guy's.That's why were all here after all, to help and to learn. I know I've done both.
 

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I did this mod today stealing bigmike's idea. Piece of cake. Took me longer to run up to the store to get the gauge, tap and 11/32 drill bit(which I still cnat believe I didnt have that one size bit) than it did to do the whole job. I am now draining all of the coolant and going to refill with Water Wetter.
 

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I did this mod today stealing bigmike's idea. Piece of cake. Took me longer to run up to the store to get the gauge, tap and 11/32 drill bit(which I still cnat believe I didnt have that one size bit) than it did to do the whole job. I am now draining all of the coolant and going to refill with Water Wetter.[/b][/b]
I'm sure you already know but in case you don't, you cant fill your whole system with the water wetter. That I know of.
 

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BTW - I have used water wetter in ALL of my track and my street bikes for years. Never had a problem. As soon as I brought a new bike home one of the first things I did was drain the coolant and fill with water and water wetter. The only thing I know it doesnt protect is Magnesium. I am interested to see if there have been issues with it in the Brutes. I havent filled it up yet but was going to flush the system and fill it tomorrow after work. I will wait till I get home and see what the reply is.
 

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I took the fan controlling sendin unit out of the thermo housing and installed another sending unit to the temp gauge. And put the fan on a toggle switch.
 

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Front_Page, just to let you know, the sender you removed from the thermostat housing isn't for the fan, it's for the over temp light on the instrument pod. The fan sender is in the left side of the radiator near the top.
 

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It doesn't matter...I didn't need it anyway. Make a few passes and let it cool down. With the fan on a switch you can turn it on sooner and keep the temps around 165-170 which a cooler motor, the better.

Thanks for the info though.
 
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