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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Left = "Driver" side; Right = "Passenger" side for US drivers. 2013 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i EPS.

I made an oopsies, and smashed the front left edge, of my front left tire, into a fallen tree sticking out into a trail, while in a right turn. (srry if that's a mouthful). Bent lower control arm & the upper and lower control arm ball joints needed replacing. Replaced it all, and it fixed my positive camber issue.

But I ended up w/ 1.919" of toe in on the driver side.

So this got me thinking, what gives? Passenger side alignment is pristine, and the driver side tie rod doesn't appear to have any obvious damage (would I see it w/ this much toe in?). Regardless, the tie rod would have needed to get longer to do this. What does this leave out that can cause this?
  • No wheel damage.
  • Knuckle damage (no obvious damage, I had the whole knuckle off the vehicle to inspect it).
  • Anything else? Steering column? But what specifically, the steering column is a little greek to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Okay good to know.

TL;DR: Read bold text.
  • No wheel damage.
  • Knuckle/spindle at the very least aren't cracked. Any good way to really check the knuckle/spindle aside from "no obvious signs of damage".
  • Actually measured toe w/ laser today and it's 1.9190" toe in driver side & 0.2065" toe in passenger side.
  • How to check for bent frame?
  • Will be replacing tie rods & ends w/ American Star HD non-heim joint just b/c the rubber boot on the old ones are bad.
  • Will a simple toe alignment & verify matching camber be a good fix? Also, why does the FSM mention camber once @0.6 degrees w/ no mention of front or rear, and... positive?
Also is this (see green links below) amount of play (L to R in steering) normal? There is absolutely no play in the control arms, they're solid. It's all in the steering stem (see attached photo), and both tires move in unison; so the tie rods can't be contributing much. Video taken from passenger side (4s long) Photo taken from passenger side

When measuring toe (not under 1G) I can get readings of 2.52mm to 8.03mm toe in depending on which way I twist the tire AND let it come back to rest, then measure w/ laser level and micrometer. Repeated these measurements three times and got the same readings. Is this normal?
 

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1. Any good way to really check the knuckle/spindle aside from "no obvious signs of damage".
Using a straight edge across the front flat surface, Measure the distance between the tie rod mounting hole to the edge of the straight edge. Use the un-impacted side as the control. If there is a difference, there is damage. See pic below:



2. How to check for bent frame?
First, look for any signs of frame tube deflection at the a-frame mounting points. Cracked paint on welds, mounts pushed in making a dimple or depression...ect. Then straight edge both sides, top and bottom looking for warp-age using both the straight edge and feeler gauges.

3.Will a simple toe alignment & verify matching camber be a good fix?
You can try but it sounds like you have something wrong with that side and may not be able to achieve the total correct toe-in.

3.1 Also, why does the FSM mention camber once @0.6 degrees w/ no mention of front or rear, and... positive?
No idea other then it is fixed and can not be adjusted
4. Also is this (see green links below) amount of play (L to R in steering) normal?
One with P/S some movement is normal but yours has excessive (IMO) and an additional sound with that movement. There may also be some PS unit damage. If yours does not have power steering, look for lower..or upper stem bearing damage or stem damage itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
1. Any good way to really check the knuckle/spindle aside from "no obvious signs of damage".
Using a straight edge across the front flat surface, Measure the distance between the tie rod mounting hole to the edge of the straight edge. Use the un-impacted side as the control. If there is a difference, there is damage. See pic below:



2. How to check for bent frame?
First, look for any signs of frame tube deflection at the a-frame mounting points. Cracked paint on welds, mounts pushed in making a dimple or depression...ect. Then straight edge both sides, top and bottom looking for warp-age using both the straight edge and feeler gauges.

3.Will a simple toe alignment & verify matching camber be a good fix?
You can try but it sounds like you have something wrong with that side and may not be able to achieve the total correct toe-in.

3.1 Also, why does the FSM mention camber once @0.6 degrees w/ no mention of front or rear, and... positive?
No idea other then it is fixed and can not be adjusted
4. Also is this (see green links below) amount of play (L to R in steering) normal?
One with P/S some movement is normal but yours has excessive (IMO) and an additional sound with that movement. There may also be some PS unit damage. If yours does not have power steering, look for lower..or upper stem bearing damage or stem damage itself.
so turns out I’m just a moron and didn’t turn the key on. Much less play lmao
 

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It does have EPS and r.i.p $500 used $1100-$1500 new. This is something I'd wanna make damn sure actually did need replacing before doing so as the process seems involved too just glancing at the FSM. Also, I didn't think of it until now so I'll have to go out there when I get back from work, but if I turn the ignition on and thus energize the ATV, will the play remain? I'm very curious to get home if you don't answer first.
The play should decrease to nothing below the PS unit motor and some will remain at the bars as the torque sensor has some free movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The play should decrease to nothing below the PS unit motor and some will remain at the bars as the torque sensor has some free movement.
So this is too much then (3s Video)? It sure isn't nothing so darn, although it’s significantly better. FullSizeRender (1).MOV

Update: It drives just like it used to, and was stable @50mph on paved road. So at least it drives. When I set my alignment I was getting like 5mm toe out, to 10mm toe in each side, depending on which way I turned the tire (this time with the tire on the ground, sitting on a turn table.) So the average of that is 2.5mm toe in per side, which gives me the 5mm total toe in that I wanted. This was with the key on, engine off, and a dead battery.

Also it took ~60-66lbs of peak force applied perpendicular & at the edge of the left handlebar, to turn the tires from straight to completely left. With the key on, engine on, it took ~45-50lbs of force. Perhaps with a new battery it'll perform better, but idk... we will see.
 
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