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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is this the KEBC going bad or something else? Engine braking is still good. Noise starts under 10 mph; only during deceleration, using no brakes.
Link:
Primary Clutch Noise
 

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I'm going to say that because it starts about the time the bearing makes contact with the fork it's going to be either/or both a bad bearing.. or the plastic tips on the fork are ..not there for some reason. Just have to pull the cover and see which...or both..it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I’ll try to pull it off tomorrow and see if I can narrow it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I updated the video after I pulled the cover off. Also I attached a picture of the forks. Sounds like the bearing and maybe the shoes? The fork may have some wear as well, but can’t remember exactly what’s it’s supposed to look like.

Updated video: Primary Clutch Noise

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bearing is easy to spin with the tip of my finger and feels smooth. Thanks for pointing out the parts I need to order! (y)
 

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The shoes are a bit tricky to order Measuring is hard but stick with what the book says. Spider removal also. They have a special tool for then but there are YT vids on doing it without. I wonder why it looks like there is a bit more wear on one plastic then the other. They is flat spots on them even new but they should be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I see what you mean about the plastic fork wear. I’ll have to look at that a little closer. Would you replace that as well?

I don’t have a ton of time to rebuild this clutch, so thinking I may just buy a complete primary. $1000 new on parts website - that’s a no go…

Heard anything bad or good about the “Mother Clutcher” primary sold by Harvey ATV parts? About a 1/3 of the price of a new one and about the same price as used ones on eBay. My thoughts on a used one is it might not be any better than what I have.

link: Mother Clutcher
 

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Heard nothing bad about Mother Clutcher. All good things. I would go that direction too if I was going for a new clutch. I had mine rebuilt at my old shop for about $220.
That was shoes, bushing, baring, flyweight bushings and pins and sheave re-polish. I did get a little discount...but still...walked away with a near new clutch for $220. Maybe check with your local shop. Also don't have to buy any special tools...which was why I went in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That’s good to know. I’ll check around and price a rebuild vs the Mother Clutcher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I went ahead with a new primary from Harvey ATV Parts (mother clutcher). Checked around on a rebuild and the cost was close enough that I opted for a new one.

Huge improvement in performance with the new primary. Performs like new again. Thanks to @NMKAWIERIDER for the diagnosis! Picture of new mother clutcher primary (left) next to the factory primary .
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