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Not sure about better as the Brute's fan motors are sealed with a vent that runs to the vent manifold but there are larger ones..not usually sealed though. The Kawasaki fan switch is pretty tough considering it runs the fan motor load through it, not like others that just trigger a relay. The Kawasaki auto-breaker could use some improvement but in normal conditions it works OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Put a new radiator,thermostat,and hoes on her.not running hot anymore,but clearly hotter than I want it to be.im looking at putting an oil cooler on it,and I read your post on oil coolers.does anyone out there sell a complete kit ? I tried to go to Alamo motorsports,but it wouldn't load.
 

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Put a new radiator,thermostat,and hoes on her.not running hot anymore,but clearly hotter than I want it to be.im looking at putting an oil cooler on it,and I read your post on oil coolers.does anyone out there sell a complete kit ? I tried to go to Alamo motorsports,but it wouldn't load.
That post is so old now I'm sure most all the links are no good anymore and many suppliers are gone now. It does help but know that the thermostat will still open and close at the same temps keeping the top end in the same operating temperatures however instead of the oil temps being at or near the 240-250F range, it will be closer to the same as the top end..between the 195-210 range. Balanced...top and bottom..and that's what you want. Also as the crank is the first thing that gets fed by the oil coming back from the cooler, it enjoys being bathed in cool 170-180 degree oil which keeps expansion down and oil films up...prolonging not only bearing life, but all parts life.

One note, many don't realize it but running an engine below its designed operating temps is almost as destructive as running one above. For Kawasaki...and most others fluid temperatures should be at least above 170 before pushing the engine. The thermostats and fan switches are set to maintain an average temp within the designed optimum operating temperature..the thermostats start opening at around 162 and become full open about 185 and the fan switches come on between 205 and 212 and when it cools down to just under 200 or so the fans turn off. So if your average is higher, by all means do what you can to get it within range but.. not below. A lot of heat people feel is coming from the front exhaust pipe though. Wrapping it helps but reduces its life span.
 

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I've looked and can't find a kit for it.any suggestions about which cooler would be best? Would you know what size oil filter adapter I'd need?
No kits available. Have to assemble one yourself. I do suggest better lines then what comes with most kits as from experience, those lines can be damaged with off-road usage. I had steel armored hydraulic lines made for mine. I thought I put what adapter in my write-up but I'll take a look as it's been many years now. 20mm..something comes to mind. Another thing to consider is the oil cooler will sit in front of the radiator...a radiator that has less then 10% extra for cooling the V-twin so don't block too much of it...but it has to be in the air stream enough to be effective...and the finned ones are 50+% better in removing heat then the stacked plate coolers.

Update: This adapter should work https://www.etrailer.com/Engine-Oil-Coolers/Derale/D25772.html
 

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Thanks man! Ordered that just now.would it hurt if I can find a slim fan to put in front of the oil cooler? One pushing air,and one pulling air?
I wouldn't cause you don't want the return oil to be much below like 170/160. And as is.. it will take much longer to warm up just with the cooler alone...especially in the cold months. I would however get an inline temperature sending unit and plant a water temp gauge to watch the water temp going to the radiator. Always good info. As I recall the pre-2012 has 18mm hoses. Check first though.

A popular place to mount the round-type gauges is here:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Last question,and I will leave you alone...for now.lol! What size cooler should I be looking for? I want one ro do the job,but like you said,not get it too cool.
 

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Last question,and I will leave you alone...for now.lol! What size cooler should I be looking for? I want one ro do the job,but like you said,not get it too cool.
A 12-14"x3" two-pass finned is more then enough. They are good for 175hp. The link below is the same company I got mine from and the one in the pic is the same except I got one with 3/8" com fittings instead of these barbed fittings for just hose and clamps.


Mine was more like this one but I thought it was a 14" where this one is a 12. It probably was a 12.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks,I willborder the 3/8 one in the morning.so mount it horizontal,and the hose that comes from the filter adapter with the arrow on it,needs to go to the inlet at the top of the cooler,right?I don't mean to keep bugging you,but you obviously know more about these than I do,and I have a lot of money in this thing,I plan on keeping it,so I want to do it right.thanks again for all the advice and help!!
 
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