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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. New to site and I’m having some real trouble I’m hoping someone can help me with. I’ve done a ton of research but decided to just ask the community.

I have an 05 brute 750. Earlier this year I decided to take all the plastics off and clean it top to bottom and give it a little love. Bad idea. Once it was back together it ran for a little while but kind of a little funky and now no power at coils. My guess was it was running but getting bad spark until eventually it wouldn’t get any. I don’t ride it too often so after a few weeks of sitting then it wouldn’t start.

I had all the plastics back off. I’ve checked all connections, tested roll over switch and crank position sensor and seem fine. I even swapped all the computer components and roll over switch with my brothers brute and his ran with my parts and I still had no power at coil with his parts in mine. So good news is I ruled our anything too major. So I think it’s something dumb.

I went through the wiring diagram and tested very wire on the ecu for continuity and power if it was suppsed to have power and ground if it was supposed to have ground. Only issue we saw was the gray wire from the ignition which was supposed to have power when turnedon but didn’t. So I jumped power from the brown wire to the gray and thought I found the issue. Nope, still no power at coils.

So I’m lost. Also I have all but one buss connecter removed. This was done before I bought it. Debating buying a new harness but hoping I don’t need to.

I would love some help. Between me and my brother we’re pretty mechanically inclined and I have his quad to test against and swap parts. So shoot any and all ideas my way!

thanks for the help!
 

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It's an 05..so has the buss connector been eliminated? If not, do that now. There's a video in the Brute Technical Articals on doing that. Next, the connections under the fuse box ate known to hold water and corrode. Pull the fuse box, lay ot on it's side and remoce the commector and inspect/clean that up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks @NMKAWIERIDER. So they all appear to be removed except one bus connector up front. But I check the wires going in and out for power and ground and stuff and they seem fine. But maybe I will ditch it and maybe even redo the connections where the olds ones were that were removed. In regards to the fuse box I get power through every fuse there but could it still be corroded like you mentioned even though power seems to be going through the fuse?
 

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Thanks @NMKAWIERIDER. So they all appear to be removed except one bus connector up front. But I check the wires going in and out for power and ground and stuff and they seem fine. But maybe I will ditch it and maybe even redo the connections where the olds ones were that were removed. In regards to the fuse box I get power through every fuse there but could it still be corroded like you mentioned even though power seems to be going through the fuse?
Take the rear buss connector apart and check it..there is only two but that's the one that gives people issues and yes, still pull the fuse box out and check those.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Guys sorry for the delay. I started digging to the harness and it’s been spliced a million times. Going to order another one. Anyone have a clean wiring harness they’d like to sell? Doesn’t need to be perfect but I don’t want another mess either. Or know if a place to get a decent one?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ordered a good looking one off eBay for $70 with coils. 🤞it does the trick. I’ll be sure to clean up the grounds and what not when I install. I’ll update the thread once it’s done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It fixed! I think it was something in the harness but one thing that did happen. I had my old ignition hard wired and the new harness had the plug. So I rigged it up to test it and I had initial spark and that was it. One spark, then no more until I hit the start button. There’s another thread here about it but turns out the ignition takes 12v at the brown wire and reduces to for the gray wire and I had the two touching. So 12 to both. I guess it’s a security anti theft thing so you can’t cut and twist the wires together and start it. Anyway once I made them not touch I got good continuous spark and it ran. I don’t believe that was my issue the whole time because my ignition was hard wired in nicely before. Who knows all I know is I’m back up and running! And the harness came with extra coils and other goodies I’ll throw in the parts bin.
 
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