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Discussion Starter #1
lol ive done the dry route. the grease zerk route. which was better but not satisfied(its gone again). so im on the hunt to make it like all others and maybe look at pressing a ball bearing in there. i know there was talk about it before or doing something... has anyone attempted it? anyone fail?
 

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lol ive done the dry route. the grease zerk route. which was better but not satisfied(its gone again). so im on the hunt to make it like all others and maybe look at pressing a ball bearing in there. i know there was talk about it before or doing something... has anyone attempted it? anyone fail?
Not yet but I have been thinking on the next one I want to take the old one to a machine shop and see if they can machine out the hiem and make it receive a sealed roller or ball bearing with a groove for a circlip retainer or something that can hold it solid in the body under all the pressures it will be under. I am sick of this mess too. I just replaced mine about 500 miles ago, grease it often and already getting some up & down movement. I think I can blame those 11" wide Baha Cross. They were always a ***** to turn and I know that pushing on the tierods pushes up on the stem...against the bearing. These GRs turn sweet and easy thank god.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ight, i knew id get your attention ;). im pretty sure we have talked about this before. I will try and figure something out as i have a spare that is already toast and im tired of the kawie one. hopefully i get to it before i start up sledding season.
 

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ight, i knew id get your attention ;). im pretty sure we have talked about this before. I will try and figure something out as i have a spare that is already toast and im tired of the kawie one. hopefully i get to it before i start up sledding season.

Yeah I got some movement but I did used it some with my old Bajas. Its not getting worse with these GRs but still pisses me off. Also I think these new Elka's I just got are going to set the bike slightly lower which should also make the tierods less of a downward angle. That should be less up-push on the bearing when turning. Maybe it will last longer.
 

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I'm watching this thread closely, my '08 has some slack in it. I've not had a chance to inspect and see how bad it really is.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so this is what i found in my travels so far, after a few hours of going thru all the major bearing manufacture catalogues i think i found a candidate.
the stock bearing/ball joint is:
16.32mm deep
12mm ID
with a max ID space of the bearing being 32.63

also if anyone seen something similar on another forum lemme know id hate to re-invent something that already has been made, or if someone has already made this part.

so i found this bearing it isn't quite deep enough but i figure a washer or two on the end of the steering shaft. since the shaft is so long in the bearing, we are forced to go with a double bearing set up to get the depth.

basically the part number your looking for is 5201-(letters after is usually referenced to open, single sealed, double sealed etc.)

i found this one on amazon. claims 1400 pound static load rating, there are bearings from this cheap one upto $150. but i figure ill try this cheaper one for a prototype.

5201-2RS Bearing Angular Contact Sealed 12x32x15.9 Ball Bearings VXB Brand: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

NOW the hard part, i got a buddy that works in the machine shop and he said it might be tough to run on a lathe due to it being unbalanced and no where you grab onto. but i shall talk to him this weekend and show him the goods
 

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so this is what i found in my travels so far, after a few hours of going thru all the major bearing manufacture catalogues i think i found a candidate.
the stock bearing/ball joint is:
16.32mm deep
12mm ID
with a max ID space of the bearing being 32.63

also if anyone seen something similar on another forum lemme know id hate to re-invent something that already has been made, or if someone has already made this part.

so i found this bearing it isn't quite deep enough but i figure a washer or two on the end of the steering shaft. since the shaft is so long in the bearing, we are forced to go with a double bearing set up to get the depth.

basically the part number your looking for is 5201-(letters after is usually referenced to open, single sealed, double sealed etc.)

i found this one on amazon. claims 1400 pound static load rating, there are bearings from this cheap one upto $150. but i figure ill try this cheaper one for a prototype.

5201-2RS Bearing Angular Contact Sealed 12x32x15.9 Ball Bearings VXB Brand: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

NOW the hard part, i got a buddy that works in the machine shop and he said it might be tough to run on a lathe due to it being unbalanced and no where you grab onto. but i shall talk to him this weekend and show him the goods

Nice work man...Exactly what I was thinking about. Hope it can be done.
 

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Wow...I was reading up on those Double-Row Angular Contact ball bearings and that's probably the perfect application. Hay if your machine shop can do this... you just might be getting into a little side business and making some money.

imagesCAFI8A5O.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sneak peak

 

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looks good ,is that a set screw in the 2nd pic or where you had the grease fitting
 

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Discussion Starter #12
IT was an old grease fitting but yes i will probably run a set screw in there for added security (good idea rmax). so i got tired of waiting for my buddy to machine it. plus he said it would be a pain as well... so I went with the a simpler less accurate approach, and she actually pressed in not problem. i used a hole saw with a good arbour, 1 1/4 which is about 31.75MM and the bearing was 32mm, and the drill press i used had a bit of slop in it.. but everything worked out fine, althought i haven't installed it yet. it did press in really nice. Sorry the updates have been slow, i also have a snowmobile with a clutch that isn't coming off...





 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just used the dewalt heavy duty one off Amazon. I didn't think it would have the umph to get thru the cast but my buddy who is a millwright said you'd be surprised what a decent hole saw will go thru,he hole saws thru 1/4 plate at work all the time just keep it well lubed/cool. Unfortunately I don't think ill be able to test it till the spring as I'm switching gears into sledding now. But if you have an extra one I suggest giving it a try. And remember you guys seen it here on BC first :p I'm surprised no one has tried this yet. Unless I'm missing something.....
 

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I just used the dewalt heavy duty one off Amazon. I didn't think it would have the umph to get thru the cast but my buddy who is a millwright said you'd be surprised what a decent hole saw will go thru,he hole saws thru 1/4 plate at work all the time just keep it well lubed/cool. Unfortunately I don't think ill be able to test it till the spring as I'm switching gears into sledding now. But if you have an extra one I suggest giving it a try. And remember you guys seen it here on BC first :p I'm surprised no one has tried this yet. Unless I'm missing something.....
I have been thinking about it for years but I always though it would take a lathe and cut it. I might just try this as I too have a drill press...and my second bearing with only 600 miles and was greasable is getting play already..:(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah for sure... the drill press i used to you could see it wobble. it took a hydraulic press to get it in there.. what i did was bolt the joint thru the drill press table, to secure it... now try and follow me here.. on the bottom it protrudes a bit, so when i drilled it from the top to the bottom you'll see that it left a razor sharp but little ring at the bottom from when it went thru, i left it in there and pushed thru it for a better press fit. its a decent fit, but not a wheel bearing tight fit. also im sure we could drill one more hole on the other side put another set screw with permanent lock tight...that should hold it.

but i haven't installed it yet either... so what just came to me... is the shaft vertical or does it run on a slight angle?

these are the tools i bought
 

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yeah for sure... the drill press i used to you could see it wobble. it took a hydraulic press to get it in there.. what i did was bolt the joint thru the drill press table, to secure it... now try and follow me here.. on the bottom it protrudes a bit, so when i drilled it from the top to the bottom you'll see that it left a razor sharp but little ring at the bottom from when it went thru, i left it in there and pushed thru it for a better press fit. its a decent fit, but not a wheel bearing tight fit. also im sure we could drill one more hole on the other side put another set screw with permanent lock tight...that should hold it.

but i haven't installed it yet either... so what just came to me... is the shaft vertical or does it run on a slight angle?

these are the tools i bought
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005LEYY/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RGZQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i01
The shaft has an angle but it mounts to the diff at that angle I believe so its trajectory through the bearing is straight. And as I recall the old seals mount to the housing so it can't have much of an angle for it to work.
 

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Guys I'm really interested to hear how it's going. Where did yall get the bearing from again? just wanted to let yall know I'm watching this with much anticipation.. I'm a piddler myself and may try it but I'll have to use a buddy's drill press.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay so before this weekend I installed this bearing set up... so far AWESOME i also did some new ends while i was in there... I can't remember the last time the brute was this tight!!... I put a solid 200 miles on it this weekend... of some slow trail abuse and fast logging road...AND still tight only problem i has was one of the ball joints came loose but no big deal. even survived a 3-4 dia. rock... too bad i can't say the same for the rad :(
 

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Okay so before this weekend I installed this bearing set up... so far AWESOME i also did some new ends while i was in there... I can't remember the last time the brute was this tight!!... I put a solid 200 miles on it this weekend... of some slow trail abuse and fast logging road...AND still tight only problem i has was one of the ball joints came loose but no big deal. even survived a 3-4 dia. rock... too bad i can't say the same for the rad :(
Bummer on the radiator. Can it be fixed or will you need a new one. Also glad to hear the new bearing is holding up.
 
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