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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ENGINE OIL COOLER

Oil Coolers. Some of us have them on our quads but most don’t. Listening to all the things our bikes are going through with seals, bearings, leaky gaskets, damaged cylinders, premature ring failures, cam & chain problems…etc sounded like the same type of things that happen to engines with high engine oil temperatures. Then I noticed HL had an engine oil cooler kit for the Brute Force…at a pretty penny so I waited. Then they dropped the line so I started looking to se what I could put together myself. I found an oil filter adapter on eBay and several roads lead me to Perma-Cool.com for the units themselves. After reading about what they can do for you and how Perma Cool’s coolers have an advantage over the rest,
I decided to see if I really needed one. Grabbed my Fluke and out the door I went.. headed for the desert. Rode for about 45 minutes over several types of trails and hills and out on the flats for a little run. Stopped, killed it, took the dipstick out and stuck the Fluke probe way down in the oil. To my surprise it climbed up to 234.6 degrees, and I had not been really pushing it. This told me it could get even hotter.. which is already hot by Perna-Cool’s charts. Ok, so it looks like the Brute could use some help. Bought the oil filter adapter from ebay for about 45 bucks but you can't get it there anymore, so here is a new place to get one.

Derale Low-Profile Sandwich Adapter - 20 mm x 1.5 mm Engine Filter Threads Derale Accessories and Parts D25772

and went back to Perma Cool’s web site to do some shopping. Alamo motorsports sells these coolers. They use the same one for engine and transmission coolers.

Perma-Cool Engine Oil Cooler Coils from AlamoMotorsports.Com!

They do have a universal ATV oil cooler, but the dimensions would have blocked a good portion of the air to the radiator, and we all know how good those stock radiators are. Better not block them too much. You guys with the HL triple-cores probably shouldn’t worry about it. They did however have the #1310, which was for a 125 horse engine and it was 14”x 3.5”x 1.5”. Perfect fit high either behind the radiator or in front. I bought it. When these two parts came in I just needed to get some 90 degree fittings, some hose & clamps. Because the airflow behind the radiator was so poor, I decided to mount it up front. Figured where I wanted to mount the cooler so I could still get most of the airflow to the radiator, then pulled the plastics. Pre-drilled some small holes and tapped them with some self tapping screws.
** UPDATE: SEE FINAL TEST RIDE NOTES BELOW ON LOCATION AND GUARD **
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler004.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler005.jpg
Then slotted the mounting holes just a bit on the cooler, installed the fittings and installed the oil filter adapter with the fitting pointing toward the lower radiator hose.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler001.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler007.jpg
Got some 1/8”(1/4 or 7/16 would have been better) black expanded metal from Lowe’s and cut a piece 10-1/8” x 10” marked and bent it to rap around the cooler then tied the back side with a couple of wire ties. This should protect it from any sticks or trees that might find their way in there, The tube is stout, bit those fins may get bent if you jam brush up in there. It is air restrictive though. A larger mesh would be better if you need something.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler009.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler010.jpg
Then mounted it and ran the lines starting at the cooler, down to the lower radiator hose and along the hose to the oil filter. Used two clamps per connection. Remember, the hot oil coming from the engine goes into the top cooler connection, and the return is always the lower connection.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler011.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler012.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler013.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler014.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler015.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler016.jpg
A note on the lines, the instructions call for 300psi rating or better. I first got just some 3/8” fuel line but changed to 3/8” Fuel injector line because it looked like the plain stuff was going to pop. The injector line I believe is rated at 100psi, but the temp it can handle is 275 I think. I later got the right stuff. See update below.

So, ran it in the shop without the plastics and it took another third if a quart to bring it back to full. Ran it for an hour around the place and check the oil temp. It only got up to 184. Then I put the plastics back on and ran it for another hour around the place. Now it got up to 192.4 . That’s still pretty good, except I would like it better if it was closer to 170. Taking the guard off would help. Still need to take it to the desert trails and test it hard. If it does get over 200, I will be taking that expanded metal guard off for sure.

In the meantime, it's high and out of sight. Can’t even see it. You guys with the HL radiators could probably mount it more in the center...especialy if yours radiators are top mounted. Here's a few shots moving lower each time.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler018.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler019.jpg
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler020.jpg
Have to get on the ground and look up into it to realy see it.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/B...ilCooler021.jpg
One funny thing is that I have one exhaust valve on the rear cylinder that is set just a little loose so it ticks until it gets warmed up. Well, now it never stops ticking so the block is defiantly running cooler. Guess I’ll have to set the valve after all now. :)
So, the costs were:
Cooler -61.76, Filter Adaptor-45.00, fittings & clamps-12.00, 7 ' of line-28.00. That's about 146.76. The full sheet of black 1/8" expanded metal that I later didn't use.. another 18 bucks

I’ll be going out for a good test run in a few days and will report the results.

UPDATE: 5/22/09. The ride went well today however there were some adjustments made. After an hour of hard riding and climbing the oil temp was 222. Like I said earlier, if it went over 200, I was going to remove the guard, so I did on the trail. Another check an hour later showed it was down to 203. Still not under 200 and still a long way from 170, but much better then the 234 at the start. So I though..Now what? Lower the cooler so its more in the airstream? I had brought enough tools to remove the mounting screws. Lowered it down about 2" and used wire ties to hold in in place for now. The cooler bracket fit like it was made for it in a little craddle on the frame.

Rode for another hour and horse-beat it as best I could. Didn't bother the radiator at all or make the fan run any more often....in fact...it hardly ran at all! That brought the temp down to 183.2 degrees as long as I was moving. That's a 51 degree reduction. Close enough for me! When I ride it easy it will be even lower. It seems to like this lower temperature. I believe it ran better. Maybe something to do with less expanded engine parts or just lower combustion chamber temperatures, but it likes being under 200 degrees. The lines held up fine, but I did get peace of mind with these new hydrolic lines I had make-up at my local hydrolic shop. Good for 210 degrees F @ 3000psi (300 @below 100psi), armored in steel. The lengths are 36" and 38".

Also got the right fittings for this new line. Both lines and the fittings for about $44.

I did not follow the lower radiator hose around the back side of that last frame just before the filter adaptor because ir was too tight of a bend in my opinion. Still wire-tied it to that frame though. Looked good and works just fine.
One other note, it had sat several days and I check the oil before starting it today, and it was still on the full mark...not over full...meaning the cooler did not drain back to the engine. It stayed full. Another plus. Should drain when the filter is off. Might take a little time though so do it hot.

So, same as above but no guard and mount it at least 2" lower and get the good lines. This was a great and needed mod to do. I believe your Brute will thank you with longer life, better performance and fewer seal problems.
 

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nice write up was going to get one of the oil coolers from HL to test but they stopped making them from lack of sales.
nice pic
<a href="http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr196/BFFreak_2008/Oil%20Cooler%20Pics/OilCooler012.jpg" target="_blank">

</a>
 

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Nice work, did you try getting rubber hose that is made for oil coolers? my tractors all use rubber for their engine and hydaulic oil coolers so I would think there is a product out there for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Aussiebrute @ May 20 2009, 07:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Nice work, did you try getting rubber hose that is made for oil coolers? my tractors all use rubber for their engine and hydaulic oil coolers so I would think there is a product out there for the job.[/b]
I'm sure there is, but last Sunday when I did this all the good places were closed. All I had was Auto Zone and Pep Boys....and you know how they are. NAPA is where I usualy get the good stuff or Tractor supply Co. NAPA makes-up my replacement hydrolic lines for the equipment and I was thinking of having them make me up a set for this. I sure would feel better about it.
 

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Nothing like having peace of mind I guess, you wouldn't want one of those lines blowing off a fitting on a ride, my machines have very simmilar set ups to what you did, but then Case and john deere do alot of testing that you and I cant afford to do and have a failure. By the way, I wouldnt have a clue how auto zone and pep boys are, lol
 

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Awesome write up man. I can't see the pictures here at work but I'm sure it looks top notch.




<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Aussiebrute @ May 20 2009, 10:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
...... By the way, I wouldnt have a clue how auto zone and pep boys are, lol[/b]
Your really mising out dude. The town I live in has 3 red lights spread out over about a mile but we have 4 auto parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Aussiebrute @ May 20 2009, 08:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
By the way, I wouldnt have a clue how auto zone and pep boys are, lol[/b]
Oh I forgot...you are across the pond from us. Your are lucky then. Thay are the kind of autoparts store that just has the basics for everyday car repair....and not much of that either.
 

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Very nice! Excellent write up! I am very interested! What did you pay for the cooler? Do you have a total dollar figure for the complete job?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Slumlord @ May 20 2009, 01:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Very nice! Excellent write up! I am very interested! What did you pay for the cooler? Do you have a total dollar figure for the complete job?[/b]
Well, lets see...Cooler -61.76, Filter Adaptor-45.00, fittings & clamps-12.00, 7 ' of line-28.00. That's about 146.76. The full sheet of black expanded metal that I probably didn't need... was another 18 bucks

Still was cheeper then the HL was.
 

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Ok, so I looked-up the specs on this 30R9 fuel injection hose and it says it good for lubrication oil and its good to 275 degrees with intermittent use to 302 degrees. I shouldn't ever go over 220 (maybe 200 or less) so that's good. And it has a max working pressure of 100psi but it takes 900psi to burst. The Brute at 4000 rpm at operating temp has 62.6 psi oil pressure. So, I think its at least good for a test run.
 

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Yep, agreed!
 

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Ok I want to do this, anyone know what the threads are on the filter so I can find the right adaptor, or NMKAWIERIDER do you have a link to the adaptor you have?
 

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Just what I needed to know, found one on Aussie ebay, Thanks
 

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Ok, did it...got the right hoses made at my local hydrolic shop.. These babys are good to 400 degrees F and 3000psi . One is 36" long (the lower hose) and the other is 38" long (the upper). They cost about 22 bucks each to make. Cheap peace of mind in my book.

 

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Way to go, Thats what I will be doing, and caliming the tax benifit as a machine repair. now I just need to find an oil cooler
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Aussiebrute @ May 28 2009, 05:59 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Way to go, Thats what I will be doing, and caliming the tax benifit as a machine repair. now I just need to find an oil cooler[/b]
I guess shipping to over there would be a killer. Surely there's some place that you can get one there. Even a bigger one like a.. four pass. Something I noticed yesterday out on the desert was that when I am not moving much...not shoving lots of air through the cooler..like doing a lot of hill climbing in the heat, the oil tempature still got over 210. That's not bad but what worried me with that was...how hot did it used to get without the cooler? 245..250..more? No wonder we go through seals and stuff. I would guess those guys that keep the engines under water probably have nothing to worry about with heat though.
 

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I can get a cooler no problem, just got to find one that fits right and is good quality, and perma cool is too expensive for me. yeah shipping can be a killer. I want to do the 08 storage box mod, and my dealer quoted me $208.80 today, so I went to babbits online and got US$46, (about AUS$60 for me) and $121 shipping, which makes it over $200 aswell, so no box for me. my muzzy was only 70 shipping. back to the oil cooler, I'm sure auto parts shop in town can find me the right one, I just don't go to town that often.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Aussiebrute @ May 28 2009, 07:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I can get a cooler no problem, just got to find one that fits right and is good quality, and perma cool is too expensive for me. yeah shipping can be a killer. I want to do the 08 storage box mod, and my dealer quoted me $208.80 today, so I went to babbits online and got US$46, (about AUS$60 for me) and $121 shipping, which makes it over $200 aswell, so no box for me. my muzzy was only 70 shipping. back to the oil cooler, I'm sure auto parts shop in town can find me the right one, I just don't go to town that often.[/b]
It will be worth it. You probaly have some country out there like I have here. Hot and dry. When out there, your Brute will be much happier...I say that because it describes what mine is like. You know that point where it just warms up just enough to run realy good..."the sweet spot"..you know.. before it gets totaly hot and seems like it looses a little something? With the oil cooler, it feels like its in that sweet spot all the time now. Even the fan runs half as much now.

You know with todays air shipping with Fedex, DHL, UPS going everywhere, the cost for shipping over there shouldn't be what it is.
 
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