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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,


So I was looking over the suspension on our 08 BF 750. Seems there is some play in the upper A-arms. I didn't check the lowers nearly as close. Looks like it's time to replace the uppers and since I'll be in there, might as well replace the lowers.


Front wheel bearings, upper and lower ball joints were replaced a few years ago, so no worries there, along with the tie rods, but I think the tie rods are junk again.



Do you guys recommend a certain manufacturer? I see all balls makes a full kit. They are the brand of ball joints I went with and tie rod upgrade.. but the tie rods appear to be not so good.


Reading the specs, I can't imagine they are junk...


https://www.motosport.com/all-balls-aarm-upgrade-kit?mmy=kawasaki;brutef750;2008
 

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Most of us go with the ASR kits bit these look just as good. If you have a few bucks in your pocket and want to end front a-arm issues for good, replace both upper and lower a-arms with the 2012+ sets and their bushings. I have a video on installing the bushings in their a-arms. We that have done it ended our bushing replacements for ever.


And QuadBoss makes a decent ball joint and tierod end..which are probably repackaged Allballs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the front kit, hope to tackle it this weekend. Also got some 28" ITP mega mayhems on diesel 14 m12's for the new can am.




I don't see that ASR makes a rear a arm bushing rebuild kit? Looking at quadboss for that... part # 413585


What have you used for the rear?
 

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Got the front kit, hope to tackle it this weekend. Also got some 28" ITP mega mayhems on diesel 14 m12's for the new can am.




I don't see that ASR makes a rear a arm bushing rebuild kit? Looking at quadboss for that... part # 413585


What have you used for the rear?
Never wore any out in the rear..almost 5000 miles. One set is like the OE fronts with the bearings. The other are rubber like the new ones. The ones that are like the front I always thought if I needed to replace them I would just buy a set from ASR and make whatever adjustments needed to make them work...but the chance never came up. The knuckles have brass bushings that last a long time and I made them greasable so they were good as new too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah i checked the rears and then all seem tight and good. Thanks for the info as always!


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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I got the left hand side lowers replaced. The one with the wrist pin WAS AWFUL TO GET OUT!!




I couldn't get the upper out... 3lb maul wouldn't make it go much. I PB blastered it too. The wrist pin was shot.


I'll just buy new upper a arms and use my new bushings.


This wasn't supposed to take all day....
 

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Well, I got the left hand side lowers replaced. The one with the wrist pin WAS AWFUL TO GET OUT!!




I couldn't get the upper out... 3lb maul wouldn't make it go much. I PB blastered it too. The wrist pin was shot.


I'll just buy new upper a arms and use my new bushings.


This wasn't supposed to take all day....
I guess you did get the retainer clips out. If you have a long enough punch you usually can go from the other side and kick them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes clips came out of all 3. My god the upper was bad! I put it back together for now, with the old bushing and most of the bearing. Had to get a ball joint separator to get the current upper a arms off.



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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah it didn't move much at all. PITA!


Bought new upper A-Arms.


I think I'd like to install grease zerks on them. I'll look to see if my brother in law can do that as I don't have any taps or dies.


I assume put it in the middle of the upper A arm where it won't hit anything of course.


My 2017 can am has them all over the place, love it. The uppers are hard to get at though....... have to reach across from the opposite side to get the uppers, quite the contorting job!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
wait a minute.... do you have to punch them out from the opposite side the clip was on? Or do they punch out either way??
 

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wait a minute.... do you have to punch them out from the opposite side the clip was on? Or do they punch out either way??
They have stops or lips inside the tubes that hold the bearings from going in any farther and the clips stop then from coming out so..yeah, they have to be pushed or tapped out from the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They have stops or lips inside the tubes that hold the bearings from going in any farther and the clips stop then from coming out so..yeah, they have to be pushed or tapped out from the other side.

Makes sense. I was punching in the right direction. Barley moved. New uppers on the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Here is one side. Part of the uppers are still in the a arm. Got both upper a arms off. Lowers are done. Just waiting for the new a arms!



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Discussion Starter #18
Arms are here, bushings and bearings are in. Just gotta go get them in tonight or tomorrow!



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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Pre 2012s. So no zerks. It doesn’t get watered so hopefully shouldn’t be and issue. All done. No more slop and the suspension seems to ride better???? I torqued everything to spec.

Note the new radiator hose too :)




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