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Front Wheels Locking Up out of 4WD...

371 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  CLToy
I recently picked up a 2007 BF 750i, camo edition with around 900 hours. I was told it had no issues and when I picked up the bike, the guy drove it around and thought he tried 4WD. Anyway, I got it home and tried 4WD. It goes into gear fine, was a bit rough, but switching out of 4WD it would finally change the display to 2WD but wheels would be hard to roll or even locked up/not rolling. I would shut it off, go inside for a bit and magically it would be back in 2WD again to operate as it should.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Hood


Previous owner said he put on new front calipers and that it might be the front brakes locked up. They were new but not bled well with old fluid in the lines. I flushed and bled the lines and they work well now. I thought the other fluids needed changed. The coolant overflow tank was empty...added coolant. It appears the engine oil was not too bad but changed it anyway with new oil and filter. The rear differential probably has never been changed...as it is very gritty and black. The rear brakes work but not well (maybe a cable adjustment?) And I stripped out the front oem differental bolt trying to remove it. However, I could not feel any oil in the font differential with the fill port removed! With the front diff locking up, I am concerned about the gears.

Anyway, after my fluid change, I got up Saturday to expect to find fluid from the front diff leaking on the garage floor. No drips despite requiring the full fill amount. Why would this be dry?! I kept the bike in 2WD with a small aluminum trailer and worked my property.

Wheel Tire Plant Sky Vehicle



I was cutting a downed tree and loaded up the trailer. I went to 4WD-Lo and pulled the trailer with ease. The bike shifted so much smoother with clean fluid. Completed the job and wanted to go back to 2WD. Same story, difficult getting out of gear and despite saying 2WD on the display, the bike was a dog, dragging and even locked up the front axles. Ive never seen anything like this before. I took a quick video.

Video of issue...
2007 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 Stuck in 4wd


I shut it down and went inside. When I came out a few hours later, the bike fired up and was in 2WD and rode it to the garage for storage like nothing wrong. Crazy!
  • Is this the actuator acting up?
  • I saw a manual conversion kit to remove the electronics, is this a good upgrage to ensure that it is locking into and taken out of 4WD reliably?
  • I came to a stop to switch into 4WD, should I be rolling slowly when switching in and out of 4WD?
Thank you for your input.

Chadrick
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That....should not be possible. Yet here it is. The fact that it was low on oil concerns me and in internal damage to bearings, carrier spider gears and shaft, diff-loc friction plates and cage...ect. Equaling concerning is the black gritty fluid found in the rear gear case. That should be clear tractor hydraulic oil or wet brake fluid. It being in that state means not only serious neglect, but burning wet brake friction disks.

Lets get back to the front. For the back wheels to spin while the front is locked says the 4wd coupler must be at least disengaged enough to uncouple the drive shaft from the pinion. For everything forward of that to lock like the brakes are on, then releases when sitting a while says there is some force remaining after shifting that takes a while to dissipate. Kawasaki's system requires motion for the actuator controller to operate. It must get at least a 2mph signal from the speed sensor in order to make the actuator rotate. You can actually shift in and out of 4wd anywhere between 2 and 12 mph. Just do it with no power on or off the throttle, a neutral power state.

As for the locking I am going to guess a little here...its either the front brakes not releasing pressure back to the master..as in overfilled, seizing wheel bearings or outer CV joints...which is not very likely..but possible. Or, there is internal damage in the front diff of a kind that...well, differs from must I have ever seen. I think the pinion bearings are so bad that it is able to climb onto the teeth of the ring gear and lock. Somehow it slides off after sitting and resumes OK until 4wd is used again and is forced to climb back up the ring gear again. That's just my gut talking though. I think you are going to have to make sure its nothing from the wheel inward first, then pull the diff down and see what's going on. There is also a inner bearing retainer ring on the pinion that can be loose. It happens on the rear of many thousands of these but sometimes the front's do come loose. You can retract and remove the front driveline and see if there is and end play on the coupler which is attached to the pinion. Also and weird side or up and down play. That will tell you there;s something wrong there. A little play on the coupler's bushing to the pinion is normal. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
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NMKAWIERIDER,

Wow, thank you for this very informative post. Here is an update from today.

That....should not be possible. Yet here it is. The fact that it was low on oil concerns me and in internal damage to bearings, carrier spider gears and shaft, diff-loc friction plates and cage...ect. Equaling concerning is the black gritty fluid found in the rear gear case. That should be clear tractor hydraulic oil or wet brake fluid. It being in that state means not only serious neglect, but burning wet brake friction disks.
I know. I am very concerned as well; however, aside from bringing tools to look at fluid and such when looking at a used bike, I would have had no idea. Again, this is on me. I am trusting as the guy helped with transport and seemed genuine in his dealings with the ATV. I am disappointed but hope to fix everything so I can manage my property easier.

Lets get back to the front. For the back wheels to spin while the front is locked says the 4wd coupler must be at least disengaged enough to uncouple the drive shaft from the pinion. For everything forward of that to lock like the brakes are on, then releases when sitting a while says there is some force remaining after shifting that takes a while to dissipate. Kawasaki's system requires motion for the actuator controller to operate. It must get at least a 2mph signal from the speed sensor in order to make the actuator rotate. You can actually shift in and out of 4wd anywhere between 2 and 12 mph. Just do it with no power on or off the throttle, a neutral power state.
I tried this today, instead of coming to a stop to shift into gear. It moved into 4WD effortlessly and I could tell that the front was engaged with the blip of the throttle and pulling to make turns. It certainly doesnt roll as smoothly and maybe this is a mechanical issue with the front differential, but lets be optomistic for now.

As for the locking I am going to guess a little here...its either the front brakes not releasing pressure back to the master..as in overfilled, seizing wheel bearings or outer CV joints...which is not very likely..but possible. Or, there is internal damage in the front diff of a kind that...well, differs from must I have ever seen.
I rode around my property in 2WD for a while warming it up and looking at my work this weekend along my creek and fencelines. I still have much to do but was happy that I have something to make life easier. I used the front brakes when in 2WD and didnt notice any issue with lack of front tires spinning or locking up the calipers. I think the front brakes are very nice and I likely need to replace the discs in the rear to match the stopping power at some point.

Wheel bearings and CV joints...I looked for grease fittings and didnt see any. Are there grease fittings on any of the shaft joints? Not sure how to test the other. Guess I can just put on my lift and spin the wheels for fun. Ha!

I think the pinion bearings are so bad that it is able to climb onto the teeth of the ring gear and lock. Somehow it slides off after sitting and resumes OK until 4wd is used again and is forced to climb back up the ring gear again. That's just my gut talking though. I think you are going to have to make sure its nothing from the wheel inward first, then pull the diff down and see what's going on. There is also a inner bearing retainer ring on the pinion that can be loose. It happens on the rear of many thousands of these but sometimes the front's do come loose. You can retract and remove the front driveline and see if there is and end play on the coupler which is attached to the pinion. Also and weird side or up and down play. That will tell you there;s something wrong there. A little play on the coupler's bushing to the pinion is normal. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
I am dreading all of that in the above paragraph. Sigh.

Once I shifted out of 4WD, the display went back to saying 2WD but then the bike got funny again. Rolling but shortly after, locked up and plowing. Almost seemed as if it was in limp mode and difficult to move. I really think that the system is not able to completely disengage from 4WD and there is something up with both the actuator as well as the KEBC sensor. Why would I be able to engage 4WD and work the ATV and no issues until I try to go back to 2WD? My gut, and you tell me if I am way off here, is that it thinks it is getting out of 4WD but the actuator doesnt and the other system blunts the bike. Is this possible?

I am not affiliated with this company, nor do I know if this system works well, but it might be an option to have reliable 4WD on the ATV and not far off the price for new OEM parts.

And if that company is watching, please feel free to send me products to review! :cool::LOL:

BRUTE FORCE - PRAIRIE ULTIMATE KIT

Anyway, the bike wont even go in reverse under its own power after trying to come out of 4wd. But, I went back to the garage this evening to fire it up and rode flawlessly in 2WD for 10 min. I think coming out of 4WD almost seems like it can switch into but then not completely out of and not until a power down cycle does the bike release 4WD.

Might try this kit unless others have ideas or experience with this company.
Chadrick
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My thought is- in or out of 4wd or anywhere in between, the front end should not lock up like that..it should always rotate. I think you are going to have to pull the front diff and pull it down. It's not that hard so don't loose sleep over it.

Do this: Collapse and remove the front drive line. Then roll it back and forth a foot or two. Then get a hold of the coupler piece that you see coming out of the diff and see if it has any in and out movement. Just push and pull it with some vise-grips or something. I think when the actuator is trying to slide the coupling back on the pinion splines it also pushing the pinion into the ring gear and locking it because of a bad bearing...or something else.
I ordered a replacement/used front differential, new front and rear diff seals, Brute Force Ultimate kit - manual 4WD switch, rear replacement brake discs, new spark plugs, and a new belt and removal tool. We will see what happens next. Ive never rebuilt carbs before but think they need it, given its stellar service history. Hopefully this will be an improvement. More to come...
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