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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I just completed an engine rebuild on a 2010 Brute Force 750. I put a Hot Rods rebuild kit in it that contained a new crankshaft, connecting rods, main bearings and Wiseco pistons. The rest of the internal engine parts and heads are in great shape as the engine was not abused and has only 946 miles on it. Upon completion, the engine started right up but I immediately heard a knock or ticking noise and I can't pinpoint where it's coming form.

Since the clutches on these bikes are so noisy, I pulled it off so I could hear the engine better. The engine noise seems to go away with a little more RPM's making me think it has something to do with the timing chains. I swapped the front and rear chain tensioners as I read might be a fix but it didn't make any difference.

Another thing to note is that the engine will not rev up to full RPM's. It seems to bog down like when the air cleaner is missing but I made sure that the air cleaner is fully mounted with no leaks. I attached a link that shows the engine running at different RPM's. Thanks for your help and any information is appreciated.

 

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A bit hard to tell but my ear says its about the same speed as the crank, not the cams which is half that speed. The only thing that cones to mind on that sound is once I heard that on one that had a piston put in backwards. Also, I have to ask, what was the thrust clearance ..ie the end play on the crank after the case assembly. Kawasaki cuts each thrust main bearing for each crank. Many times replacing the crank without changing that thrust is OK....but sometimes not. Put the bolt in the crank without the clutch and just snug it. Grab it with some vice grips and pull it to you hard. Mark the crank right at where it comes through the seal. Then push it. If you feel any movement or see any of your line move under the seal...there's a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi NMKAWIERIDER, thank you for the quick response. You're correct in that the noise does sound timed with the crank and not the cams. I'm 99% sure that I put the pistons in correctly as the Wiseco's are marked very well with an arrow pointing to the "front" of the engine. I didn't get any pictures of them before I installed the heads like I normally do, so there's a chance that I could have screwed up but my memory tells me they're right. As far as end play goes, it feels tight when I pull it back and forth like you mentioned with the bolt. The crankshaft is pressed into the larger roller bearing in the right side case half with an interference so I'd be surprised to see end play. I'm not sure what thrust bearing you are referring to? I replaced the bronze crankshaft bushing in the left side case half and the crank turned freely after assembly. I appreciate your input and I see you have helped a lot of people on here with their engine problems. I'm not ready to pull the engine out yet, but if I have something installed incorrectly, looks like I'll be pulling it sooner than later.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I'll see if I get any more input from other members. Once I get if figured out, I'll post my findings in case anyone has a similar problem in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So after waiting two weeks to get the timing chains and gaskets, (they were hung up in shipping somewhere) I got the engine back together and it runs perfectly. It turns out that I didn't have the front chain guide seated all the way down. My mistake was that I initially assembled it after the head was mounted which I learned later that it needs to be installed before the head goes on. I replaced all the chains anyway even though there may have been some life left in them. Oh well, I plan to hold on to this thing for a few years so it's good that they are fresh with the rest of the engine components. Thanks for the input.
 
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