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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so I finally took my 2016 Brute 750 on a trail ride over the weekend. Great machine, really like it. But when going down a hill and the engine brake engages the belt seems to slip and I hear a loud "chirp". It doesn't happen all the time but it happened more and more as the weekend went on. My Brute only has 275 miles on it, so it's not like the belt is worn. But it is 2.5 years old. Or is there an adjustment to make the engine brake not kick in so hard?

Any useful input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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Engine brake is simply the belt staying engaged while the CVT back/down shifts to lower ratios as the engine slows..or tries to slow down. If the belt actually is slipping, that would mean either a very high amount of deflection..far over the max spec..or.. loss of grip or friction against the belt and clutches..caused by wear, glazing from previous burning(1), or something on the belt like water or oil.

In any case, you will have to remove the cover and check all this to find out what is going on.

(1) Just FYI-, about 6mph and below in high range the Brute's clutch system will have to slip some to maintain that slow of a speed. Sustained slow speeds in high range will glaze the belt and cause slippage when under power or hard deceleration. If the Brute is to be run below say 8 mph for any length of time, best to use low range.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Engine brake is simply the belt staying engaged while the CVT back/down shifts to lower ratios as the engine slows..or tries to slow down. If the belt actually is slipping, that would mean either a very high amount of deflection..far over the max spec..or.. loss of grip or friction against the belt and clutches..caused by wear, glazing from previous burning(1), or something on the belt like water or oil.

In any case, you will have to remove the cover and check all this to find out what is going on.

(1) Just FYI-, about 6mph and below in high range the Brute's clutch system will have to slip some to maintain that slow of a speed. Sustained slow speeds in high range will glaze the belt and cause slippage when under power or hard deceleration. If the Brute is to be run below say 8 mph for any length of time, best to use low range.
Yea I was afraid I would have to take the cover off and take a look. I was hoping there was some kind of easy adjustment. So if I put a new belt on what guarantee do I have this won't keep happening?
 

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Yea I was afraid I would have to take the cover off and take a look. I was hoping there was some kind of easy adjustment. So if I put a new belt on what guarantee do I have this won't keep happening?
Well, you don't even know what's wrong..yet. :) No guarantees with off-road machines. Find and fix the problem and/or cause is always the best course of action.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After doing a little research and talking to a buddy of mine who was a Kaw mechanic, there are shims in the driven pulley. The belt that has been on there for 2+ years may have tightened up due to lack of use. So I will replace the belt, if it happens then, I'll need to remove a shim or two. Hopefully I'll get into it today or tomorrow.
 

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Those shims are for setting deflection which is to be between 22-27mm. Belts get looser over time and when they go past 27mm you adjust by taking a shim out. Good luck with your replacement. Supposed to remove the clutches to replace the belt so I hope you have the puller and a torque wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pulled the clutch and belt last night. I had a clutch puller tool that worked on my 2008 Teryx and it worked for the Brute as well. The belt looks new, but there are a few wear spots here and there where it looks like it was rubbed or burnt. So I ordered a new belt, $97.45 delivered on eBay. I spoke to my buddy who was a Kaw mechanic and he said belts to "chip" when they are worn. So with only 275 miles on it the guess is that without some regular use it has expanded.
Taking the belt off the Brute was easy compared to taking it off the Teryx. I removed the side panel, including the black insert that has the webbing on it. You have to open the airbox lid to access one screw. You also have to remove the collar right below the pod. Lastly there are several of these screws that have nuts on the back of them or clips. Keeping an eye on the clips is important as they like to "disappear", or fall on the ground or slide down where you can't see them. You also have to take the large plastic nut off the ignition, and I took the rubber insert off around the plastic where the shifter comes through. I did not pull the panel off the shiftier knob, I just pulled it out and rotated it so I could get to the cover. There are 8 10mm bolts to remove, two have "wire holders" on them. You have to unplug two wire connections.
To remove the clutch there are several videos on YouTube.
I'll post once I get the new belt on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
New belt and it's fixed. We rode Hatfield McCoy trails over the weekend and I put about 90 miles on the Brute on Friday. No more chirping sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I went out on another ride and my belt is slipping a little bit and every now and then I get a "chip". We rode in Utah last week and it was hot and dusty. It only seemed to act up after we took a long ride on a straight away and then down a hill. We went down some nasty steep loose rock hills and it held fine. I'm not sure if the heat and dust were causing the issue or if it's time to take a shim out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm still having this issue. I took it to the dealer and they said the deflection was okay. I'm thinking about putting a stiffer spring into the clutch. Any other ideas? Or how do I check the deflection? Obviously I'm going to tear it down again. I did buy a Gates belt and I'm going to put that on and see how it does.
 

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I would not use an aftermarket belt... OE belts are the best. There are numerous threads here about checking belt deflection. If I went through the trouble of pulling the belt, I'd change the springs to suit my riding style... Also, numerous threads about changing springs
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, so I'll take it apart today. Say the deflection is out of spec, or over 27mm. Then that means its eating belts and I should remove one shim correct? Or what if the deflection is in spec, which I guess it probably is, then I'm pretty much back to square one and its time to try a stronger clutch spring. But that is just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took the cover off to check the deflection. I could push the belt down over 1.5" by hand. So that is close to 59mm. Looks like I'll be removing a bunch of shims. Anyone know of a Youtube video to watch on how to do this? I have a spring compressor. I've taken the clutch and secondary off.
 

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Accuracy is key. It must not exceed 27mm and no less then 22mm. There is no inchs involved. The thinnest shim can make 5-7mm reduction in deflection. You must have an accurate starting measurement. The manual has all the info you need. I use these tools to measure deflection.






Then go by the manual:





I have an EPI compressor but you can make one from all-thread rod and a 2" cut-away cap. I'm sure there are YT vids somewhere. Just search.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the info above. Do you have a video or service manual page that shows how to take the secondary apart so I can remove shims? I did measure it like you have shown, and I'm at 30mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I took the secondary apart. I was watching a YouTube video and it said to have the front and back marks lined up. I think mine might have been put in wrong from the factory. The pictures below are the front and back. What you see in the pictures is the secondary front and back. All I did was spin it around. So what is at the bottom of both pictures is the same place on the secondary, just different sides. Pictures should be attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry, can't get the pictures to attach. I drag them to the "drag files here to attach" section, they are visible for a second, and then disappear. I remember having this issue before, and there being a different way to get them to attach.
 

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Sorry, can't get the pictures to attach. I drag them to the "drag files here to attach" section, they are visible for a second, and then disappear. I remember having this issue before, and there being a different way to get them to attach.
Don't remember anything about lining-up marks. Just need to get all three dogs back in and greased. I use a flat blade screwdriver with some grease on it to hold them, then an old wooden clutch alignment tool to push all in at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had no issues getting them back in. There are 4 on mine. Your right, easy to pop out with a flat blade screw driver. I put them back in by putting it on it's side, sliding them back in with my finger until it caught on the hole, and then just pushed them in. Once in, they didn't really want to come out easily.

I took out the .8mm shim and mine seems to be better. We'll see after a hard ride in warmer temperatures.
 
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