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I have the manual for the 2005 750. Mine is a 2006 650i. Are the valve clearances the same, or does someone have the specs?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (77Gman77 @ Nov 30 2008, 09:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I have the manual for the 2005 750. Mine is a 2006 650i. Are the valve clearances the same, or does someone have the specs?[/b]
Year & Model ’07 KVF650F7F:BRUTE FORCE 650 4x4i
Valve Clearance (Cold) Intake: 0.10-0.15mm
Exhaust: 0.20-0.25mm

That is from the Kawasaki Brute Force 2007 650i shop specifications so they are the same as the 750.
 

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ok so I am fixing to adjust mine. I have read that the valves tend to tighten, so what side of the specs should i be. more towards the .10 or .15 on intake. and the Same for the exhaust side. Thanks.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (07galaxy650 @ Dec 19 2008, 03:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
ok so I am fixing to adjust mine. I have read that the valves tend to tighten, so what side of the specs should i be. more towards the .10 or .15 on intake. and the Same for the exhaust side. Thanks.[/b]

Be on the big side by setting them to .15mm on the intakes and .25mm on the exhausts. By my experience that works out to a 1/4 turn out past contact in the intakes and a half turn out from contact on the exhausts. Be sure to double check this on yours with a feeler guage but it has been been spot on with mine three times not. Also make sure you are at TDC for the cylinder you are working on.
 

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So I adjusted my valves, but now i got a chatter. I think i did everything correct. I set the crank at the t on the f and did the fron valves, then the ton R and did the rear. Set them at .13 intake and .23 exhaust, but still chattered. Then i tightened them to .10 and .20 still a faint chatter? What could it be? It runs fine, but makes a chatter now. Never did that before. I am going to take it apart later this week and check everything else, it just dont make since. Is there a better way to tdc the valves? Depending on how you look at the slot, you could be off a decent margin. Thanks guys.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (07galaxy650 @ Jan 6 2009, 08:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
So I adjusted my valves, but now i got a chatter. I think i did everything correct. I set the crank at the t on the f and did the fron valves, then the ton R and did the rear. Set them at .13 intake and .23 exhaust, but still chattered. Then i tightened them to .10 and .20 still a faint chatter? What could it be? It runs fine, but makes a chatter now. Never did that before. I am going to take it apart later this week and check everything else, it just dont make since. Is there a better way to tdc the valves? Depending on how you look at the slot, you could be off a decent margin. Thanks guys.[/b]
Well, I do it a little different. Been doing this was sence I worked for Honda in the 70s. Never had a problem. Still do it on the Brute.

I have a pull start so its a little easier for me to do but, just roll the engine around untill you see the valves open and then just shut. Then give the crank another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. That usualy enough to point the lobes and /or ramps away from the rockers...and that all you want anyway. Then set the valves. What I do is set the feeler gage under the tappit and screw the adjuster down to just touch with just a little pressure, then tighten the lock. One thing that I did notice with 2 of my valves is the when I do tighten the lock nut, it pulls up on the adjuster and when I check it after tightening, its too loose and on those I have to start out a bit tighter then the others so at the end I have the same slight friction. Its a ***** sometimes getting the same exact setting on both valves, but its important. The other think to keep in mind is that whenever the factory gives you a range to be in, that meand the best sopt is the center of that range. This goes for toein, belt deflection, valves...anything listed with a range.

Good luck man. Better loose then tight, but not too loose as to pien the valve top.
 

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Well here is what i did. I removed my pull start and cover. Then i removed the check plug and cranked it counterclockwise until i had it lined up. Then I adjusted them, front at one time, then cranked to rear and did the rears. But the first tinme i did notice that the valves were loose after i locked them down. I initially loosened them, slid the filler in and tightened them until a slight drag started, then i locked it down. Thats correst right? I am not certain what you mean by seeing the valves close. IS there another way to know? I just looked at the tmark on the crank threw that check plug.... I will be foolin with it again at the end of this week, so we will see. I know i fooled with it for a while last friday until i said screw it.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (07galaxy650 @ Jan 7 2009, 12:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I am not certain what you mean by seeing the valves close. IS there another way to know?[/b]
See I don't bother with the marks. What I mean is just watch the rockerarms, when they go down, they are opening the valves and when they come back up, they are closing. Once they are up 100%, just another 1/4 turn on the crank to assure the cam ramps are well off the rockers.

The rest is just like your doing it.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (07galaxy650 @ Jan 7 2009, 12:11 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Well here is what i did. I removed my pull start and cover. Then i removed the check plug and cranked it counterclockwise until i had it lined up. Then I adjusted them, front at one time, then cranked to rear and did the rears. But the first tinme i did notice that the valves were loose after i locked them down. I initially loosened them, slid the filler in and tightened them until a slight drag started, then i locked it down. Thats correst right? I am not certain what you mean by seeing the valves close. IS there another way to know? I just looked at the tmark on the crank threw that check plug.... I will be foolin with it again at the end of this week, so we will see. I know i fooled with it for a while last friday until i said screw it.[/b]
I think your doing wrong the same thing that I did wrong the first time. You may be getting the marks lined up OK but the piston and valves are not at true "top, dead, center". Top dead center is when the piston is all the way up to the top of the compression stroke and all the valves are closed. Here is a link to an animation to help you understand.

http://www.keveney.com/otto.html

With the valve cover off rotate the crank slowly and watch the rocker arms as they push down on the valves and then as they move away and let the valves close. When a valve is open the rocker arm is pushing down on it and the opposite is true. When the valve is closed the rocker arm isn't pushing on it and there should be a slight clearance between the two. The key is to watch the intake valves open as it sucks fuel and air into the cylinder then after they close you are in the compression stroke. The intake valves are the ones closest to the carbs. Watch in the timing hole for the TDC mark to align and you are ready to set the valves for that cylinder. I loosen the lock nuts on both intake valves and back the screws out until they are not touching the valves. I then turn them in until they barely make contact and then back out 1/4 turn. Hold the screw in place and tighten the lock nut then do the other intake valve. For me 1/4 turn out from contact ends up being .15mm but you might want to check it on your also to be sure. Once the intakes are done I loosen the exhaust valve lock nuts and back the adjusters out 1/2 turn from contact which for me equals .25mm. Once again make sure you check it with a feeler gauge once its locked down.

Once you have one cylinders valves set then replace that valve cover and do the other cylinder. You have to watch the valves again as you rotate the crank to see when the intake valves close and then the mark aligns.

This is all lots easier the more you do it. It takes me longer to remove the side cover, battery, and tray than it does for me to set the valves after doing it 3 times. I now plan on setting my valves before every big ride because there is nothing like hitting the throttle on a well tuned Brute and nothing worse than to get to your ride spot and not being able to get it started.

Good luck
 

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So another words, the rockers move several times before the valves are actually up. I need to rotate the crank until the valves are up and the rockers arent touching the springs. Then i tdc through the inspection hole and set them at that point. So Basically i am setting them at tdc, but in reality their not up? Or am i still screwed up? What if the valves are to tight? Then i wouldnt ever see the gap would I? I think i should have prolly left it alone.lol I know once i figure it out i will say a couple choice words.lol


Here is what i went off of....
http://www.700v.com/valves.htm
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (07galaxy650 @ Jan 7 2009, 06:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
So another words, the rockers move several times before the valves are actually up. I need to rotate the crank until the valves are up and the rockers arent touching the springs. Then i tdc through the inspection hole and set them at that point. So Basically i am setting them at tdc, but in reality their not up? Or am i still screwed up? What if the valves are to tight? Then i wouldnt ever see the gap would I? I think i should have prolly left it alone.lol I know once i figure it out i will say a couple choice words.lol


Here is what i went off of....
http://www.700v.com/valves.htm[/b]
That works. I sent you a PM.
 

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If your valves are too tight then there will not be any clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm. That is why you are adjusting them in the first place. If you are hearing excessive valve chatter after adjusting them then you probably adjusted them when the piston was at the top of the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valves were just closing and the intake valves were just beginning to open.

Next time rotate the crank through several cycles while watching the valves and you will recognize the difference. If you watch it long enough you will know when it is at TDC without even looking for the timing mark like BF FREAK says.
 

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If your valves are too tight then there will not be any clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm. That is why you are adjusting them in the first place. If you are hearing excessive valve chatter after adjusting them then you probably adjusted them when the piston was at the top of the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valves were just closing and the intake valves were just beginning to open.

Next time rotate the crank through several cycles while watching the valves and you will recognize the difference. If you watch it long enough you will know when it is at TDC without even looking for the timing mark like BF FREAK says.
If your valves are too tight then there will not be any clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm. That is why you are adjusting them in the first place. If you are hearing excessive valve chatter after adjusting them then you probably adjusted them when the piston was at the top of the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valves were just closing and the intake valves were just beginning to open.

Next time rotate the crank through several cycles while watching the valves and you will recognize the difference. If you watch it long enough you will know when it is at TDC without even looking for the timing mark like BF FREAK says.
ok i have a 650 brute force and im adjusting the valve and there are no valve clearance on the compression or exhaust valves

how would I be able to tell the difference between the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke with no valve clearance on either one
 

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ok i have a 650 brute force and im adjusting the valve and there are no valve clearance on the compression or exhaust valves

how would I be able to tell the difference between the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke with no valve clearance on either one
First, you must remove the calve covers from each side of the cylinder you are working on. Then by hand, and it's easiest to do that with the clutch cover off and turn the primary clutch in the normal direction of rotation, rotate the engine until you see the intake valves go down. Slowly continue rotating until they come back up. At that point the piston has completed it's intake stroke and now just needs to compress it so it's one-half of a turn on the crank...or mark the top of the clutch and turn it until that mark points straight down. That...will be close enough to TDC of the compression stroke to set all valves on THAT cylinder. If you have the site plug out you can if you want, line-up the timing marks. Either TF for the front or TR for the rear..which ever you are working on but it's not necessary. When done do the same to the other cylinder. Piece of cake.
 

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First, you must remove the calve covers from each side of the cylinder you are working on. Then by hand, and it's easiest to do that with the clutch cover off and turn the primary clutch in the normal direction of rotation, rotate the engine until you see the intake valves go down. Slowly continue rotating until they come back up. At that point the piston has completed it's intake stroke and now just needs to compress it so it's one-half of a turn on the crank...or mark the top of the clutch and turn it until that mark points straight down. That...will be close enough to TDC of the compression stroke to set all valves on THAT cylinder. If you have the site plug out you can if you want, line-up the timing marks. Either TF for the front or TR for the rear..which ever you are working on but it's not necessary. When done do the same to the other cylinder. Piece of cake.
thanks ill give it a try when i get off work and see what i can o complish
 
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