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i took off actuator and tested with battery charger and it works. however the switch doesnt seem to engage into 4x4. i checked switch. there is a green wire and a black yellow stripe wire. when i check wire the is continuity when switch is positioned in 2wd. whe switched to 4wd then my meter reads differently. what else can i check as i am new to owning a brute force? does the engine brake actuator have to work for the 4wd actuator to work also? also my dash is flashing. it shows 2wd for a second and then 4wd and back and forth. im stumped.
 

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The flashing 2/4wd light means there is an error code. One of the actuators has a problem or the system has a problem and as long as that problem exists, actuator control voltage is terminated. No actuator will work. Check for power at the switch with the green wire. It normally will have 4.7 volts. Now with the error it should be zero.

Get the service manual and start checking things...find and fix the problem and all will be good again.
 

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i started checking the control box according to service manual. when i get to the part on checking the 2wd/4wd switch, it does not read the correct voltage it should have. i took switch off and it looks structually sound. my comment is i dont understand how this would be the problem if its just a simple switch. it connects the two wires together and thats what its doing. if i replace with new switch i feel it would be same voltage. its reading 0.18 volts when switch is on 4wd. could it simply be bad control box?
 

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i started checking the control box according to service manual. when i get to the part on checking the 2wd/4wd switch, it does not read the correct voltage it should have. i took switch off and it looks structually sound. my comment is i dont understand how this would be the problem if its just a simple switch. it connects the two wires together and thats what its doing. if i replace with new switch i feel it would be same voltage. its reading 0.18 volts when switch is on 4wd. could it simply be bad control box?
Remove the green wire from the switch. Turn the key on. Test the voltage between that green lead and ground. It should be between 4.2 and 4.7 volts when normal. Tell us what it reads.
 

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thats what i did. i took switch off and opened it up. inside there was the green wire and the black yellow stripe wire. i put positive lead on green wire and negative lead to battery negative. read 0.18 volts on the meter
 

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thats what i did. i took switch off and opened it up. inside there was the green wire and the black yellow stripe wire. i put positive lead on green wire and negative lead to battery negative. read 0.18 volts on the meter
You actually took the lead off the switch and got .18 volts. Then you proved it, the system is down due to the error. One of the potentiometer (there's one in each actuator) isn't position itself correctly for some reason. It's either electrical as in a bad connection or motor, or mechanical as in something binding or broken. These can also mean the coupler that the 4wd actuator moves when activated or its pin might be binding or broken. On the EB side, the fork may be binding or the primary's spider may have a problem or the magnets on the motor may have come unglued..very common.
 

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You actually took the lead off the switch and got .18 volts. Then you proved it, the system is down due to the error. One of the potentiometer (there's one in each actuator) isn't position itself correctly for some reason. It's either electrical as in a bad connection or motor, or mechanical as in something binding or broken. These can also mean the coupler that the 4wd actuator moves when activated or its pin might be binding or broken. On the EB side, the fork may be binding or primary spider problem or the magnets on the motor may have come unglued..very common.
See above. The problem must be before or after one of the actuators.
 

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you can test them off the bike by adding power to them an they work thats normal
but you have a issue with 1 or both actuators thats not allowing the controller to supply proper voltage to the switch
go back an read NMK post an pay attention your getting the right advise JUST PAY ATTENTION
 

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You actually took the lead off the switch and got .18 volts. Then you proved it, the system is down due to the error. One of the potentiometer (there's one in each actuator) isn't position itself correctly for some reason. It's either electrical as in a bad connection or motor, or mechanical as in something binding or broken. These can also mean the coupler that the 4wd actuator moves when activated or its pin might be binding or broken. On the EB side, the fork may be binding or the primary's spider may have a problem or the magnets on the motor may have come unglued..very common.
I have a similar problem with my 2005 750. I have 1.2 volts on the switch wire (with the switch disconnected). The 2wd/4wd lights are NOT flashing. It stays in 2wd all the time. Should I be looking at the potentiometers as well? I've already done the bridge fix.
 

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I have a similar problem with my 2005 750. I have 1.2 volts on the switch wire (with the switch disconnected). The 2wd/4wd lights are NOT flashing. It stays in 2wd all the time. Should I be looking at the potentiometers as well? I've already done the bridge fix.
With 1.2 volts, it's probably a corroded connector or something else because an error is supposed to kill all control power, not just 3 volts of it. One common problem is that people put too much dielectric grease in the CDI /ECU and actuator controller connectors and that spreads the female sides of the pin connectors. That..causes bad connections and..on top of that, even if it didn't, that coating on the pins increases resistance and reduces voltages...especially on low voltage systems like that switch's circuit.
 

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I've checked the connections at the fuses & fuse holder, everything is clean. Every connection I've looked at looks like new. This machine has been Garage kept since new and has never really been in the water. I've never put dielectric grease on any connectors. I'll keep looking. 13 years and this is the 1st problem I've had with it.
 

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There is a blue connector about 15" from the 2wd/4wd switch (where I'm getting 1.2V). Are there any other connectors between this one and the controller? 2nd question: Should the switch read open when in 2wd and closed when in 4wd? Mine reads open in both positions. So I know I have a bad switch, but still need to fix the voltages problem.

Thanks,
 

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There is a blue connector about 15" from the 2wd/4wd switch (where I'm getting 1.2V). Are there any other connectors between this one and the controller? 2nd question: Should the switch read open when in 2wd and closed when in 4wd? Mine reads open in both positions. So I know I have a bad switch, but still need to fix the voltages problem.

Thanks,
I honestly don't remember but it is a toggle...and it has to be close in one position and open in the other. And with any low-voltage circuit, your reading will depend on the common you use so check power several different ways. May have the 4...whatever volts required and just have a bad switch.
 

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No Luck with that... I left the blue connector disconnected (open circuit) and drove it, it stays in 2wd. I shorted out the 2 pins on the blue connector and drove it, stills stays in 2wd. I'm going to see if I can find some wiring diagrams. Then probably look at doing the manual conversion.
 

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No Luck with that... I left the blue connector disconnected (open circuit) and drove it, it stays in 2wd. I shorted out the 2 pins on the blue connector and drove it, stills stays in 2wd. I'm going to see if I can find some wiring diagrams. Then probably look at doing the manual conversion.
We have the free service manuals with the wiring diagrams here. Look in Brute Technical Articles.
 

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I've checked the connections at the fuses & fuse holder, everything is clean. Every connection I've looked at looks like new. This machine has been Garage kept since new and has never really been in the water. I've never put dielectric grease on any connectors. I'll keep looking. 13 years and this is the 1st problem I've had with it.
Anyone ever figure it out ? I have an 11 , same problem. I connected the actuator to my bench power supply, 5vdc and it turned .
All connectors clean, look new. Somehow I made it go into Limp mode while trying things, I did the reset and got it out of limp mode.
Is it possible to power the 4wd actuator directly, from battery thru a momentary switch, bypassing the computer ? Never had any problems with this quad but this is getting frustrating.
 
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