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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my brute is basically brand new, 300 miles on it. I've done all the first maintenance items and what not. Two weeks ago I went to Idaho for a group ride. The night I got there, my brother and I decided to take our wheeler's out for a ride. I noticed after about 2 miles that my 2wd/4wd light was blinking in 3 second intervals (3 seconds for the 2wd and 4wd indicator both). Bike ran fine, but of course I couldn't put it into 4wd. When I got back to camp I disconnected the battery and after that everything worked fine for the rest of the weekend and up until today. From then to now I have another 150 miles on my machine or so.

This morning I started my brute, let it warm up, drove it around a bit and loaded it onto the trailer. When I turned it off it went through the normal shut down routine (whine, buzz, whine, buzz...you guys know the sounds). I got out to the trail head and took off. I noticed that once again my 2wd/4wd lights were flashing with the same 3 second interval. I rode about 35 miles round trip. When I got home I disconnected the battery again and it seems to be functioning now like it did before. I can put it into 4wd and the engine braking works as well. I turned it off/on multiple times and never did get the lights to flash again.

Has anyone had this happen before? I'm sure someone has. The manual states that with this 3 second interval (6 seconds total) that both the 2wd/4wd actuator and engine brake actuator are the failed components. I'm thinking that they are probably ok, and that there is some other little gremlin at cause here. Maybe low battery voltage on initial start-up?? I have been storing the brute outside, although covered, and it is now winter time here. Both times this has happened has been after I warm up the brute and load it on the trailer. Both times it was fine when I started it, drove it around and loaded it. The problem didn't occur until after I unloaded it from the trailer and started it up. Each time the light was on and I turned the key off, the engine brake controller didn't make it's usual whine and buzz shutdown routine.

Does anyone have any info or solutions on what I can check? It's just a little annoying since it's a brand new machine and I end up not having 4wd out on the trails, randomly.
 

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still under warranty take it in. My 2012 did the same thing (2 second intervals) and both my KEBC and controller were bad. Warranty covered it,but the bill would have been about 1k if not
 

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Mine have done it, too. Try charging the battery with a battery tender or other slow charger. If the battery gets low, the lights will flash but nothing is wrong with the controllers. After charging, pull the 30 amp main fuse for a few seconds to reset it. You're doing the same thing by going for a long ride and then disconnecting the battery.

When you load the Brute do you have it in 4WD? I was loading mine into my pickup or trailer in 4wd and hitting the 2wd switch and turning the key off. My theory is that the motor was trying to shift out of 4wd and keeps running. I haven't confirmed this with a tester but the problem went away when I either leave it in 4wd or switch to 2wd and rock it until 4wd actually disengages.

One time it drained enough overnight that it wouldn't even start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will check for loose connections in the morning. It's hard to believe that something is actually broken or non functioning, because I have taken it on 4 rides since the first time it happened. Maybe it's just a voltage problem on the first start-up. Unfortunately I can't store it inside, so maybe I should just get a battery tender. When I disconnected/reconnected the battery tonight, I drove it for a couple miles, turning it off/on, switching into 4wd, testing the engine braking...it all worked as it should. This is one of the reasons that almost kept me from getting a brute..and here it shows up already in 300 miles haha!
 

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A Battery Tender is a good idea in any case. Get the bigger model, not the "Jr" model. It has a pigtail that you connect to the battery and run outide of the battery cover so you don't have to go through the hastle of removing the cover to charge the battery.

The EPS draws a lot of power so it's very sensitive to low voltage and Kawi didn't do a very good job of documenting the warning lights. Again, just my theory but always make sure the 4WD/2WD is fully engaged/disengaged before turning the key off.
 

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I've got the 2 second flahing 2WD/4WD again. It started when I was on a 94 mile ride a couple of weeks ago. It has happened a couple of times over the last year but has always gone away after I disconnect the battery or pull the 30A fuse but it won't reset now. I took it to the dealer since I have an extended warranty.

The mechanic said he tested both actuators and they're good so he's going to test the control unit in the morning. Also, the battery ran down while it was at the dealer, so I think they left the switch on 4WD. For some reason it drains the battery if the switch is on 4WD and the display is flashing.

I'll update if/when fixed.
 
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I removed the belt brake from the belt housing cause every time I rode it , the 2wd/4wd lights would come on. Now that the brake fork has been removed for two years now , I have not had any issues.with the lights. My belt actuator is more than likely filing under a load , but with no brake installed , there is no load on it.

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Any Ideas ??

A couple of posts up you'll see what's going on. Mechanic said the motors were good and so was the speed sensor. They finally got KGPP to send a new ECU. They put a new battery in it also.

I went to pick it up today and drove it around the parking lot to make sure all was good. It started flashing again. I got the service manager and mechanic to come and watch me pull the 30 amp fuse and put it back in. No flashing, started it up and no flashing, drove around the lot and it starts flashing again.

We took it into the shop and tested the voltage from the ECU to the 4 wd actuator. Mechanic said it's only getting 1.9 volts to the actuator motor. I assume he was testing the right plug - it was under the plastic flap on the right side wheel well.

Mechanic said he would contact KGPP and see what they want to do. He said he'd guess they'll replace the wiring harness but didn't know for sure.

Does anyone have any ideas?

PS - sure glad I got the extended warranty!
 

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If either potentiometer does not get to where its supposed to when either actuator is activated, it generates an error code that flashes the 2/4wd light. This can be from any number of reasons including binding or sticking mechanisms, moptor failures, low or no voltage to the motor or a bad actuator controller. It also can be a bad speed sensor or bad ground. In any case no actuator motor will receive ant power (12volts) until the wheels are moving over 2mph and less then 12mph. Many times when the front diff has not had its oil changes regular enough fibers from the dif-loc build up and cause the coupling to slide hard. This is enough to cause an error too and has happened many times. Also, how the light is flashing will tell you which one has the problem or that the entire system is having a problem. You can find that data in Brute Technical Articles. I would hate to see them chop up your machine because of something easy or overlooked. I know we have to trust these shop mechanics but do know there are a high percentage that know next to nothing...and are unwilling to look it up. The "1.9" volt thing is a dead giveaway. At least on the 2005-2011s the is only 4.7 volts on the potentiometer and control system and 12 volts to the motors.
 

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The light is the slow flash meaning trouble with both actuators. The unit they replaced was the actuator control unit not the ECU as I stated. I did see him spinning the wheels with the ATV jacked up, so that matches some of what I read in the service manual. Oils have been changed according to the service receipts but I can't swear they did it.

I was going to just bring it home but I was afraid that I might have problems getting the KGTPP warranty to cover taking it somewhere else. I had enough problems getting them to admit that I even had the extended warranty. You'd think they could verify it with the serial number and my name. To make things worse, the guy who did all the tests and determined it was the actuator control unt no longer works there.

I was just hoping someone else had an identical problem and knew the fix.

I guess all I can do is give them a few more days next week.
 

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Well...Kawaski had them do some more tests ...and... now the Good Times Protection Plan guys are getting the okay to replace the wiring harness. I'm not pleased! :mad:

If I didn't have the warranty, (work is being done free to me, no deductible) I'd just put a manual 4wd shifter on it, remove the KEBC fork, and unplug the Actuator Control Unit. In fact, I'm real tempted to just tell them screw it and fix it myself. The other alternative would be to snip the wires at the Contol Unit plug and run new wires.

I'm surprised at how well the compression brake works without the KEBC. Any reports of problems with the manual 4wd shift kit that you know of?
 

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Well...Kawaski had them do some more tests ...and... now the Good Times Protection Plan guys are getting the okay to replace the wiring harness. I'm not pleased! :mad:

If I didn't have the warranty, (work is being done free to me, no deductible) I'd just put a manual 4wd shifter on it, remove the KEBC fork, and unplug the Actuator Control Unit. In fact, I'm real tempted to just tell them screw it and fix it myself. The other alternative would be to snip the wires at the Contol Unit plug and run new wires.

I'm surprised at how well the compression brake works without the KEBC. Any reports of problems with the manual 4wd shift kit that you know of?
Might as well let them make it right..hard to figure t was the wiring harness is at fault though. As for the manual 4wd, no bad reports. I would have figured they might leak water in or something but have not heard that.
 

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Much as I hate to, guess I'll just let them keep working on it. Lucky I have the new(er) '12 to ride.

I just have a bad feeling about it. I'd bet it will turn out to be something real simple and cheap after they sink a couple grand into it.
 

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the first few units i sold did leak some ,but corrected that problem ,an sent the other guys the parts to fix theres ,i have been running mine since forever now with no failures ,1 guy exploded his front diff .when he installed the new diff it would not engage ,pulled it apart an it had parts of the exploded diff in it ,cleaned out an installed no reported problems since, but like you as long as its covered i would let them have it to repair ,would just miss getting to use the machine
 

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New Problem

The service rep called me and said Kawasaki GTPP is sending a new wiring harness. He said it wouldn't be installed until Monday, so I could take it if I wanted to use it w/o 4wd. I decided to pick it up and remove my add-on stuff - gauges, brush guard, box, horn wiring, and winch wiring.

So when I pick it up, it is nearly impossible to shift and it goes 2 to 3 mph at idle. They must have messed up the KEBC and it won't release the belt. I don't think they've had the belt cover off but may have had the actuator off to test it.

What have they done and how can I fix it?:mad::mad::mad:
 

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Clearly this shop doesn't know what they are doing and I would have reservations on letting them do anything to mine. It needs to do somewhere else. I guess I would pull the cover and see what was going on. They may have jammed the actuator back in and missed the fork slid bushing.
 

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I agree about them not knowing what they're doing. Just had a long talk with Kawasaki and they looked up the case and seemed very helpful. I should hear more from them on whether they want to let these guys continue or switch shops.

On the tight belt, when I unloaded it from the truck, it shifted fine and didn't creep. When I drove it into the shed, it started doing it again. Shut the key off and the actuator reset. It's the "goofy" ACU. Seems to be activating the KEBC but not releasing it properly so I'm not messing with it.
 

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pdate - Expert Help Needed

Latest update - They replaced the wiring harness and the slow 2wd/4wd kept flashing. This after previously replacing the ACU. They pulled a new Brute out of the crate and swapped the new KEBC actuator AND the Actuator Control Unit onto my Brute and it quit flashing. They said they drove it around and it seemed fine.

They said they put the Actuator and ACU into the new Brute and it started flashing.

I drove it around the parking area and no flashing so I loaded it up and drove home, unloaded it from the pickup and into the shop. It went into and out of 4wd several times. I loaded it back into the pickup for a ride the next day. When I unloaded it all was good - for about 5 minutes - started flashing again.

Rode it anyhow with no problems but the KEBC and 4wd didn't work. I called Kawi again and they said I could take it somewhere else and that they would "elevate" the problem resolution.

Went out yesterday after it had sat for 8 days in the shop. The battery was totally drained. Luckily it is new and I got it to charge and I disconnected the battery cables. It has already ruined one battery while sitting at the dealer.

I can't believe this has never happened before! Can anyone help?
 

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Latest update - They replaced the wiring harness and the slow 2wd/4wd kept flashing. This after previously replacing the ACU. They pulled a new Brute out of the crate and swapped the new KEBC actuator AND the Actuator Control Unit onto my Brute and it quit flashing. They said they drove it around and it seemed fine.

They said they put the Actuator and ACU into the new Brute and it started flashing.

I drove it around the parking area and no flashing so I loaded it up and drove home, unloaded it from the pickup and into the shop. It went into and out of 4wd several times. I loaded it back into the pickup for a ride the next day. When I unloaded it all was good - for about 5 minutes - started flashing again.

Rode it anyhow with no problems but the KEBC and 4wd didn't work. I called Kawi again and they said I could take it somewhere else and that they would "elevate" the problem resolution.

Went out yesterday after it had sat for 8 days in the shop. The battery was totally drained. Luckily it is new and I got it to charge and I disconnected the battery cables. It has already ruined one battery while sitting at the dealer.

I can't believe this has never happened before! Can anyone help?
Sorry man..you are the only one I ever heard of having this problem. But..if either of the actuator's potentiometers fail to send the correct signal to the actuator controller that it is in the correct position, the control power is cut and the error code causes the 2/4wd light to flash. How it flashes will tell you which one or if there is a general system failure. This could be electrical or mechanical. For instance, if the engine brake actuator can't rotate completely because of a binding fork or clutch spider, that's a failure. If the slide coupling on the front diff is binding or won't either go in or come out of 4wd easily and the actuator can't complete a cycle, that's a failure. I have known guys that hadn't changed their front diff oil often enough and the particles from the wearing diff-lock disks built up enough to cause the coupler not to slide easy enough causing a flashing light. An oil change was all it took. So, it could be something as easy as that.
 
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