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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a pretty good feeling that this isn't going to be a simple fix.

I went to check the timing on my 2011 Brute 750 and it is blowing oil out the timing inspection hole.

Bought it used a few years ago. No mods of any kind, all stock. I'm not a mudder. This unit is a cow chaser.

I don't have a compression tester so I'm not sure what the compression is. Had it running Saturday after chasing many no start gremlins for several weeks. Ran decent but not perfect. When it was warmed up I could shut if off, hit the start button and it would fire right back up. Was cranky to start cold so I adjusted valves thinking this might help. Rechecked my valve work 3 times to make sure I was TDC as per the manual. Never started after my valve job but had good spark and fuel. Intake set at .005" and exhaust at .008" clearance.

I'm getting tired of wrenching on this thing. Give me the bad news doc, I think I'm ready.
 

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I've got a pretty good feeling that this isn't going to be a simple fix.

I went to check the timing on my 2011 Brute 750 and it is blowing oil out the timing inspection hole.

Bought it used a few years ago. No mods of any kind, all stock. I'm not a mudder. This unit is a cow chaser.

I don't have a compression tester so I'm not sure what the compression is. Had it running Saturday after chasing many no start gremlins for several weeks. Ran decent but not perfect. When it was warmed up I could shut if off, hit the start button and it would fire right back up. Was cranky to start cold so I adjusted valves thinking this might help. Rechecked my valve work 3 times to make sure I was TDC as per the manual. Never started after my valve job but had good spark and fuel. Intake set at .005" and exhaust at .008" clearance.

I'm getting tired of wrenching on this thing. Give me the bad news doc, I think I'm ready.

That inspection port wasn't meant to be open when running. Only to line up the TR and TF marks when doing lash settings. It.. and the dip stick will do the same thing if open while running. Even on a brand new engine oil will blast out of there so..it's normal. Where you need to be concerned is the amount of flow out the crank case vent tube. Even it will have a little normally but the more the rings wear and valve guides, the more it will have. Of course a cracked piston or broken rings will make it blast out like nobody's business.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well... that seems odd since the manual says; remove the plug, attach your timing light, aim it at the timing mark, run the engine at 1100, 5000 rpm.

Yet no warning that says "Oh by the way you won't see a bleeping thing with you timing light because you're gonna have oil blasting in your face"

Just doesn't add up.
 

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Well... that seems odd since the manual says; remove the plug, attach your timing light, aim it at the timing mark, run the engine at 1100, 5000 rpm.

Yet no warning that says "Oh by the way you won't see a bleeping thing with you timing light because you're gonna have oil blasting in your face"

Just doesn't add up.
Yep...that's life. Well, that page is out of the 2005-2007 service manual. I think they move it to 16-41 in the 2008-2011's. It's messy..just no getting around that. Of course the more blow-by you have...the worse it will be.
 

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I dont't know anyone that has used a timing light on their Brute. U really should not need it.
In the picture u provided from the manual, it looks like they have the timing light pressed firmly to the inspection hole.
 

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I dont't know anyone that has used a timing light on their Brute. U really should not need it.
In the picture u provided from the manual, it looks like they have the timing light pressed firmly to the inspection hole.
Hmm...maybe that special timing light is one of those that you look through and press onto the hole.
 
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