Kawasaki Brute Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2009 carbed brute force 650 that I can't get running for more than a couple seconds at a time. Several days ago the thing was running beautiful when parked after doing some chores around the farm. Went to start it up a couple hours later an it started and immediately proceeded to run like complete crap. Started to troubleshoot it the next day and it was getting spark to both plugs, fuel was clean coming out of carb bowls, fuel pump was refilling the bowls, and the air cleaner was clean and not clogged. Managed to get it started again and found the exhaust pipe from the rear cylinder was ice cold, seemed strange since the plug would spark when tested, so I checked both coils and the right that feeds the rear cylinder had much higher primary resistance than specs allow. So, I got a new OEM coil, installed it and now the damn thing still doesn't want to run. At first it wouldn't even try to start. Took both plugs out, they were wet with fuel so at least it's getting fuel. Checked them again and both are shooting strong sparks. Both coils show primary and secondary resistances to be in spec. Put the plugs back in and it started but wouldn't stay running for more that a couple seconds at a time, and after a little while not even that. The battery is currently charging back up and I'm looking for any help or ideas you guys might have. We bought this thing with extremely low hours but have had it for I think 6 or 7 months and it is run daily, so it's not like it sits around not being used. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Okay, just checked the resistance on the crank sensor and it's 104.9-150.2 depending on which multimeter I use. They're not high end meters, but they seem to be fairly close together. The range the factory manual gives is 110-140. Would being slightly low cause this kind of problem? I'm going to wait until the battery is fully charged and run a peak voltage test on it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,195 Posts
Okay, just checked the resistance on the crank sensor and it's 104.9-150.2 depending on which multimeter I use. They're not high end meters, but they seem to be fairly close together. The range the factory manual gives is 110-140. Would being slightly low cause this kind of problem? I'm going to wait until the battery is fully charged and run a peak voltage test on it.
I have seen them farther off and still work. But..there were some pulse coil issues. There were more flywheel key shearing problems cause some people didn't torque then correctly in the past. If they have the proper fuel and air along with the proper compression and timing of the valves and ignition, they will run. You just have to find out what's missing or weak. Start with the mechanical stuff like valve lash & timing, compression and vacuum levels/leaks. Then check fuel supply as in the pump's pressure and volume and carb function. Then move onto electrical such as voltage levels, coil voltage, grounds, connections, roll-over sensor, harb heater..which on the I's burn out a lot, fuse box connections under neigh...ect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I have seen them farther off and still work. But..there were some pulse coil issues. There were more flywheel key shearing problems cause some people didn't torque then correctly in the past. If they have the proper fuel and air along with the proper compression and timing of the valves and ignition, they will run. You just have to find out what's missing or weak. Start with the mechanical stuff like valve lash & timing, compression and vacuum levels/leaks. Then check fuel supply as in the pump's pressure and volume and carb function. Then move onto electrical such as voltage levels, coil voltage, grounds, connections, roll-over sensor, harb heater..which on the I's burn out a lot, fuse box connections under neigh...ect.
I just checked the plugs again, definitely has good spark on both cylinders. Airbox is spotless and spark plugs are wet each time I take them out, so it's getting fuel. Since it's carbed it probably shouldn't be getting more than a few pounds of fuel pressure, and I don't have a gauge that is accurate that low. Carb boots feel nice and pliable, hoses coming off the petcock and pump are also in really good shape, anywhere else to check for vacuue leaks? No way to check vacuum with it running since it absolutely will not run. All I know is that the fuel bowls are definitely refilling and when you leave the drain screw open and crank the bike over fuel pumps out into my catch pan. Not sure how I would check the volume. I need to run another compression test since the gauge kept leaking down the first time, but both cylinders peaked out around 60, which is fine according to the service manual. As far as checking the valve lash I'm not sure how in the hell guys manage it; I took everything off when I first got the thing to check them and no matter what kind of feeler gauge I tried they just did not want to fit in there, long/short/bent/straight. I was able to get under one set of valves(don't remember which) but it put such a severe bend in the gauge it cracked the thin steel. Since they were perfectly in spec I just let the other cylinder go. It's probably been a couple hundred miles since that was done. It gets used daily, but only about a mile or 2 a day. I might be missing the section in the service manual, but I don't see anything anywhere about how to check the timing. Is there a simple way to do it, or do you need to disassemble half the engine? Is there a way to test for peak voltages without that adapter they keep mentioning in the service manual? This is really driving me nuts since it was running beautifully when parked and then went to running like garbage to dead when restarted 2 hrs later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Good compression test this time: high of 66-67 in the front cylinder, 75 in the rear.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top