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The needles are important. The manual will tell you which goes front and back. As for pilot jetting, IF the floats are set correctly and there are no other issues with any part of the carb, then yes, replace with #40s and reset the A?Fs to 2.25 to start with and adjust for correct idle charge. I did that by smell. As for the mains you can do it with the plug tests but it will take more then just a few minutes of running to tell. You must become..."One With Your Brute". Being lean or rich has many different sounds, feels, smells and running nuances that need to be read along with just the plug. That or..have someone do it with an A/F ratio equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Took the carbs off cause i got 40 pilots coming and a 155,160 and 165 main jets. Both needles in it are nfkl needles. Also the pilots that were in it were n424-21 dont know if that makes a difference.. Also my front choke cable was not releasing all the way. Felt like it was almost frozen inside so i just took the plungers and springs off the cables and put them back on and siliconed the cable ends to seal it. So that may have been my issue.. I also shimmed both needles .035. And are 2.5 turns out on af screws.
When my jets come in im going to put the 160 and 165 in and the 40 pilots and tune from there. Should be pretty close
I want to thank you alot for ur help
 

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Took the carbs off cause i got 40 pilots coming and a 155,160 and 165 main jets. Both needles in it are nfkl needles. Also the pilots that were in it were n424-21 dont know if that makes a difference.. Also my front choke cable was not releasing all the way. Felt like it was almost frozen inside so i just took the plungers and springs off the cables and put them back on and siliconed the cable ends to seal it. So that may have been my issue.. I also shimmed both needles .035. And are 2.5 turns out on af screws.
When my jets come in im going to put the 160 and 165 in and the 40 pilots and tune from there. Should be pretty close
I want to thank you alot for ur help
Welcome. It should be a lot better. That one leaking choke was one big problem. As ling as the plungers and springs are in and the ports are sealed off by the plungers, you should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
If i get a a/f gauge it has to be either one thats reads 2 or 2 individuals right? Either way id have to get 2 o2 sensors? And where abouts should the bungs be welded on the pipes?
 

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I'm not sure but some have done it with just one. They are always at least 6"s from the head. Some are more. I would think if you got one right you could copy it to the other one...but Just thinking out loud here. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yea im just going to do the best i can by smell, feel and plug tests... its just mainly a yard machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok i ended up with a 165 front, 170 rear and the 42 pilot jets and 2 turns out on af screws. Pulls good from idle to 70mph. No gas smell at idle. Both plugs looked good too. I put new ngks in it and will retest after a while.
And i checked and my hmf is just a slip on i believe. Front pipe is one piece and according to the images i seen the full hmf front pipe is 2 piece.
But anyway i think i got it going good now thanks to your help..oh and i had to reset the fuel levels. Set them at 2.9mm even. Id say they were both about 3.2mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
It runs good. Very little muffler bubbling when decelerating.. Was thinking about it having a 840 kit and my old 2016 fi 750 with 29.5 outlaws seemed to have more pep then this one.. My 16 motor was stock besides muffler baffle removed and clutch springs.
I think im going to play with it more... Is there a read out on the carbs? Like what and when everything in it comes into play(pilot jet, main jet,needles,af screws,slide springs)
 

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For that specific carburetor..not that I know of..but most all carbs work in basically the same fashion. There is some information on the CV-K carb's design and as I recall I posted something in Brute Technical Articles on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
160 front and 165 rear. Still on #42 pilots. Af screw is 1 3/4 turns out..added another shim to needles and cut 1 spiral off each slider spring and polished the sliders and bores in the carbs.
Acceleration is alot better, alot better lol.. But read some of ur info on other peoples post about the af settings, now should i drop to the #40s and reset my screws or should i be good?
Did alot of wot pulls and played around my yard hammering on it alot.. Pulled the plugs and both looked good(light-medium toasty color). No whitish color on plugs at all.
I know its my machine but with all that said im happy if you are lol...if so ill leave it
 

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160 front and 165 rear. Still on #42 pilots. Af screw is 1 3/4 turns out..added another shim to needles and cut 1 spiral off each slider spring and polished the sliders and bores in the carbs.
Acceleration is alot better, alot better lol.. But read some of ur info on other peoples post about the af settings, now should i drop to the #40s and reset my screws or should i be good?
Did alot of wot pulls and played around my yard hammering on it alot.. Pulled the plugs and both looked good(light-medium toasty color). No whitish color on plugs at all.
I know its my machine but with all that said im happy if you are lol...if so ill leave it
Well..if it feels good..leave it. When I was experimenting and tried the #42s, the idle or A/Fs had to be set to 1.75 but the intermediates were so rich that it felt sluggish between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle...and the plugs burned too dark. But I didn't have a BBK so if yours feels good throughout the RPM range...heck..leave it alone :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I think i maybe be able to go to a 162 front 168 rear just to get it a tad richer...ill just see if it gets to hot when riding it for a while..
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I did some checkin and when the po had the bbk installed he had a sigma jet kit installed.they put a nylon spacer along with a metal shim and put a matching nfkl needle. I assumed that set up was stock so i added .040mm shims to it making it close to .080-.090mm..to me it runs decent but not what id expect for a 840 kit..
So im going to remove all the shims, install the 155 and 160 main with 40 pilots and 2.5 turns out as a starting point again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Actually dynojet stage one is 150 and 155 which equals 165 and 170 and hmf recommends 155 and 165.
So ill install the 160 and 165 and 40 pilots at 2 turns out.
Ill add .020mm shims to the needles
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I was looking at different plug colors. I got a 165 and 170 in and the 40 pilots at 2 turns out and .033" shims on both needles. Seems to run good but also seems could have alittle more from idle to half throttle on wot from a stand still.idle seems fine with it being steady and no gas smell.
Now it being alittle rich should i back down to a 160 and 165 and that give me alittle more idle to half throttle or add or remove shims to get more idle to half throttle?
 

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I was looking at different plug colors. I got a 165 and 170 in and the 40 pilots at 2 turns out and .033" shims on both needles. Seems to run good but also seems could have alittle more from idle to half throttle on wot from a stand still.idle seems fine with it being steady and no gas smell.
Now it being alittle rich should i back down to a 160 and 165 and that give me alittle more idle to half throttle or add or remove shims to get more idle to half throttle?
Sense its running that good, I would just run it a while them put a new set of plugs in and take another look down the road a bit. Go...and have some fun while the weather allows. :)
 
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