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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, 2020 I spent the yr replacing every bearing, bushing and seal. Powder coated the front/rear racks, bumper, steering stem, control arms, drilled and tap for zerks. Even found an OEM steering bearing and drilled/tap that sucker of a bad design.......replaced the stock blown out shocks with stage 2 Elkas. Sandblasted the body work and spray painted with krylon.

My problem now is after the first ride of the yr and a hr out, after mud and water it blew the main fuse. I replaced it and it blew as soon as I turned the key on......I waited for a bit and changed it again but this time it blew after 5 - 10 minutes.

I read about the main buss mod and possible pinched wire. I had heated grips but they no longer work. Back in 2010 I went through the wire harness connections with dialectic grease.....also my belt light is on now flashing slow.

Any advice what I should do first?
 

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Grab your shop manual and start tracing. Can't be far. For it to blow the main 30 amp fuse without any other shouldn't take long to find... Do..pull the fuse box and pull the connector underneath and inspect it first. And yes, if not done yet do the buss connector fix. All 2005s must have this. Also consider the winch controller. Many have leaked water inside and cause issues like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Grab your shop manual and start tracing. Can't be far. For it to blow the main 30 amp fuse without any other shouldn't take long to find... Do..pull the fuse box and pull the connector underneath and inspect it first. And yes, if not done yet do the buss connector fix. All 2005s must have this. Also consider the winch controller. Many have leaked water inside and cause issues like this.
So I’ve looked for the buss connection bulge in my harness and there’s no bulge....completely streamlined taped harness...I also checked the connection under the fuse block and all is ok still fill of dialectric
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also found the PO bypassed the fan relay with power from the main white wire. I’ll be cleaning that up today and take it out for a test. I still can’t find the bulge from the bus connecter and if it makes any difference I have the 05 750a so when I reset the belt I have to use a wire to jump in the procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes sir.....watched it and had it saved. I even have the 2 white taped spots on my harness in the same location as the one in that vid......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I’ll be testing tomorrow after I put the rear back together and get it back home....I took it to work so I didn’t have to hear it from the wife when I get home. I replaced 2 sections of wire....the main white under the fuse block and then at the fan relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So after replacing two sections of wire and going over the entire harness again with dielectric grease I fired her up and tried to get the fan to turn on but it is currently -1 here in Toronto. I did have it running quite a while and soaked the entire bike including under the seat with no issue whatsoever. I’m currently heading north for a run Two get the fan to turn on...... The main thing that keeps bugging me is this harness has no bus terminals under the tape. So unless the previous owner in 2007 did the mod maybe I am lucky......
 

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So after replacing two sections of wire and going over the entire harness again with dielectric grease I fired her up and tried to get the fan to turn on but it is currently -1 here in Toronto. I did have it running quite a while and soaked the entire bike including under the seat with no issue whatsoever. I’m currently heading north for a run Two get the fan to turn on...... The main thing that keeps bugging me is this harness has no bus terminals under the tape. So unless the previous owner in 2007 did the mod maybe I am lucky......
All that came into the US had the buss's...but the ones that went to other countries...even Canada.. had electrical previsions the US models didn't...and maybe...they just didn't have the buss's in them at all. Hell I just learned that in Australia, Kawasaki made and sent the 650 for one additional year. Dropped-off everywhere is 2013...except there. So odd.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Was out today for 6hrs in mud and water up to the seat.....no issues 👍 I was the only Brute in a sea of CanAm’s....lots of rocks and logs with some road riding...boy do I need new rims. My steels are original and have quite the wobble over 40km. I’ve really beat the **** out of her the last 13yrs. Anyone have some good recommendations for rims?.....or anything else for that matter?! I think I need new tie rods too. I’m thinking of putting a temp gauge on her too.

As always thanks for the advice and really love this community🤘
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Also wanted to mention the stage 2 Elkas I got performed flawlessly....money well spent IMO.
 

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Was out today for 6hrs in mud and water up to the seat.....no issues 👍 I was the only Brute in a sea of CanAm’s....lots of rocks and logs with some road riding...boy do I need new rims. My steels are original and have quite the wobble over 40km. I’ve really beat the **** out of her the last 13yrs. Anyone have some good recommendations for rims?.....or anything else for that matter?! I think I need new tie rods too. I’m thinking of putting a temp gauge on her too.

As always thanks for the advice and really love this community🤘
I installed a set of 2017 alloy oem Kawie Brute wheels on my 05 750. I also have a set of Mud Lite XTR tires on those wheels - the ride is way better now, compared to the 14" wheels and Bear Claw HTR tires I use to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
New American Star rod ends ordered as one is seized, 2 are sloppy. Also need to adjust the diff lock......I’ve never had a problem before but now the lever goes right to the bar with no spring back and when I adjust it up top the only way I feel resistance when pulling the lever at the bar is with the shift shaft lever (on the diff) just mm from the rubber before the lock nut. When I took everything apart to lube and rebuild the suspension I don’t remember it having so little throw.

How much travel is it supposed to have?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Any advice guys....should I clock the shift shaft lever back for more throw?
 

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Glad you got the other problem figured out.
Isn't there a timing mark on it if i remember correctly?on the shaft and lever. Cable adusted right
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ya there’s a dot on the shaft and I have to clock it 1 tooth past the pinch point.....it’s working great but until my rod ends com in I won’t know how it performs
 
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