Wanted to post a small review on this kit. Bought the kid used from a fellow member after he got a 12+. I did my research, and ready up on any problems that occurred. Figured I'd take the chance used, even though Super ATV has dropped the price to 520 shipped(says sale, but its been like that since May), and includes a 3 year warranty (with deductibles for parts).
Install wasn't too bad. Instructions were good. I took the front fenders off to make it easier, and just get in there and look around as i haven't had to do so yet. Everything is clearly marked and goes where it should. Have to make sure motor doesn't touch spring, and is placed correctly, but i guess that's common sense (but not mentioned in instructions). I also put NMKawieriders heat shield mod on at time of install.
Once hooked up, my diagnostic light never blinked when you turned the key on like it said. This put doubts in my mind has i bought used and it wasn't working correctly. I tested it out that night but only on my driveway and i didn't think it was working properly. Once i took it out in the woods the next day it was working and all was good. The diagnostic light still doesn't work (I think Wee Willy may have had the same problem).
Went for a full weekend of camping/riding. Overall impression is great. It's so much easier to turn, works at advertised. The bump steer is pretty much gone. Slow, tight turns are a breeze. Even starting wedged up in rocks with the wheel turned or turning was easy.
I did some high speed (40+) on dirt roads. I had no problems with over sensitivity or any wobbling or alignment issues.
Went through some light mud and water deep enough to submerge the motor with no problems.
Weekend wasn't overly hot, but had a day or 2 that i felt the quad cooking my legs pretty good. Didn't seem to have an effect on the Power Steering.
I haven't gone back in to double check all my bolts, as recommended by other members, but i will do that this weekend.
Good review. I recently lost the control unit do to heat I believe. I run an oil cooler near the top of the radiator and it was my belief that the added heat overheated the unit. So I relocated the replacement unit where the 12s have theirs. A check after a long, hard ride showed it was still very hot so I am now adding some heat sinks and rubber vibration isolators. I'll post pics.
Good luck with yours. It surly has spoiled me and I'll do what ever it takes to keep power steering on mine.
I rarely deal with 90+ degrees here. I think you tend to be in the higher heat for longer durations. I'm in the woods, finding creeks as well. Hopefully i don't have any of the heat issues.
I was reading the owners manual the other day on my 12BF, seems Kawie has a built in To hot Temperature and if it hits that Temp for the PS, it will shut it off till the Temperature Lowers. The High Temperature is for both the PS Motor and the PS Control Box.
The Guard around the PS Motor is for protection from the Rad Heat, unclip it to clean out the guard during washing.
KQJohn said he was looking into doing that. RZR should do him well.
The 12 Manual states the overheating May Only be a issue with prolong full steering to the handlebar steering stem stops with slow moving speeds and for safety issues it may pop the eps Fuse.
SATV has a upgraded 380Watt Powersteering motor for the Brutes (up to 2011).
Would be nice if you could just buy the needed parts at a discount instead of buying a whole complete new unit, if your 1st kit is still under warranty.
By the time you shell out another $750 bucks on top of the $600 before you might as well just buy a leftover BF with the Factory installed eps.
I think...well I hope...this one is good to go for now. I'll buy a new Brute before doing another PS install...lol
This new location for the controller and the heat sink us keeping it cool....and the motor heat sink is keeping the motor cool too...and the heat shield is keeping the exhaust heat away from the torque sensor. Damn ..what else can I f'n do?
Had my first problem with the ez steer this past weekend .finally got to look at it Saturday found the 30amp fuse holder (L Cheapo) was crapping out .replaced it with a good water proof holder an relocated to the electrical tray also extended the wires on the red function light to where it could be seen
View attachment 4191
I like where you put the light. When I relocated the controller I put mine just so I could see it looking down the collar plastic. With the 2" risers I have a pretty good gap there now.
I love mine so far. Haven't really been able to use it all that much but it is truly night and day difference riding a BF without EPS. Only issue I have with mine, it pulls slightly right when the handle bars are straight. I have to keep the bars slightly left to keep it going straight. I noticed there is some play in the handlebars when the bike is off. Is there a way to align it?
That play is the torque sensor. They all have it. The alignment should be pretty good. Its just toe that you set. We did set it with the other tires and wheels on it so it might need it done again.
You will have some play with power off.I use 2 jack stands an a long piece of 2in angle an give the front a little toe in might want to look at the power supply wire with the 30amp fuse in the pos fuse holder I replaced mine after it failed with this an ran 10ga wire as far as I could to the controller seems to work better than I ever has
View attachment 4198
So you set the ATV on the angle iron and adjust the toe? I know it has play in when it is off but when riding it definitely pulls right. I have to cant the bars left to keep the atv riding straight.
I figured it was done with the big tires on there so it was a little off. That video was very helpful and was what I needed to see. Thanks for the heads up.
Ez steer acting up again let my son ride it Sunday to see how he liked the new shocks an ez quit working again got it to start again but if you move the handle bars back an forth some the red indicator light will come on dim an flicker real fast an the ez will quit again anyone have any ideas
Try replacing the fuse holder. Some have had the crimps inside go bad because of the high amp draw. Also check your battery and ground connections. If it still does it call SATV, there is a 3-year warrenty.
I have replaced the fuse holder an relocated it to the electrical tray an its been working better than it ever has until yesterday going to look into it some more today I know you have had several problems an others as well maybe we all need to get together an see if satv will take the old units in on trade for the new an improved model they have now
They had to find something wrong with the units we have or they would not have changed anything
On mine first I had the torque bar mount inside the main unit break and they replaced the main unit, then the controller failed which stopped it from working completely and they sent me a new unit for 50 bucks as it had been a couple of years. I then relocated the controller and put a heat sink on it because I think it was heat that killed it. I also put a heat sink on the drive motor which also helped with it's heating. I expect in time something else to happen..what I don't know but so far so good on the changes made. I wonder how many of these old systems they sold.
Well after 2calls to satv an waiting on a return call from their ez steer guru (that never called back) I found the problem the ground post on the ecu was burnt not allowing a good ground I knew those 12 ga wires were to friggin small the handle that load so now I have replaced both hot an ground wires with 10 ga wire had to do some rigging to get to make contact after scraping the crude off the ground terminal on the ecu the plug also showed signs of heat caused by the small wires .now to see if satv will step up an do what's right
Mine turns smoother with less draw on the battery since I ran the 10ga wires I wonder if that's part of the up grade on the new systems satv will not admit it but I really think they saw problems with the older systems an came up with the newer
20 amps is a lot of draw..even for a 10g wire let alone 12. Did it screw-up the post much on the controller? I think I'll rum 10 on both sides. I gave to pull that side plastics off anyway to install my new throttle cable.
I had to stick a piece of .020 safety wire in the female plug in order to get good connection an I have ran 10ga on hot an ground steering improved an shows less draw on the battery
On the main unit they sent me a new one with a return label prepaid to send it all (just the main unit and controller) back but on the controller failure no, because I did ID that it was the problem and they charged me 50 bucks for it.
OK so I just completed the rewiring. Where I have it mounted now makes it a lot shorter run...and I was able to take the connector out of the plastic, remove the #12 and install and solder-in the #10. On mine the power wire is also #12 to where they spliced-in the fuse holder. Then its #10 after to the controller so I just clipped it out on the #10 close to the fuse holder and crimped-in the new line.
Well they are telling me to send the controller in for testing my controller works it just hard to keep a good connection with the ground after I scraped the crude off an right now is the time of yr this thing sees a lot of use hunting season cool temps means a lot more playing an I really don't want to be shut down a couple of weeks dealing with them
We both have had ours almost the same length of time and I would think it is going to cost something to replace it anyway. Call and ask to talk to an Admin about replacing specific parts under warenty. That's what the sales guy told me to do. I think I have her name here somewhere ..damn its' on my other P/C that's in for upgrades..anyway get an admin on the phone so she/he can look up your sales number and tell them what happened and what you need.
I did test-fit the Yellow push-on terminals into the swords on the controller just in cast I F'ed up the plastic...they fit so you could always do that if the negative sword isn't too far gone and fill it with silicone. And I don't think those caps are really water proof. I see signs that stuff is getting through.
Craig called today told him the story he agreed the #12 wire would not carry the proper load an agreed to send new ecu (controller) an .main power harness out in the morning no charge
Count the number of terminal sets on top of the controller. And yeah if they don't have a sales number with your name on it, it may be a problem.
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