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REVIEW: Precision Racing's Steering Stabilizer For The Brute Force

28K views 112 replies 21 participants last post by  NMKAWIERIDER 
#1 · (Edited)
REVIEW OF THE PRECISION STEERING STABLIZER FOR THE BRUTE FORCE

Product First Look

Clean, smooth, well crafted, no burs, cast marks or imperfections. So nice, one would hate to get it dirty! Check it out!




Installation

Installation was easy and straight forward. All parts fit perfectly as expected. It is critical that tork specs be followed to the letter as per instructions. Also, double check that the stabilizer control arm and the stem clamp arm are in the proper position prior to torking. About fifteen minutes and you are ready for the trails!!
<O:p</O:p

Initial setting

Direction includes settings that professional racers use in various conditions as a baseline. I decided on the rough trail riding as a starting point. The center and sides operation are 100% adjustable for any condition or desire a rider may have.
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Conditions

The initial ride was only four hours long, but included four basic types of riding conditions.

-Desert trails that include woops, hard corners, sand, rocky climbs & malpye fields (rocky open fields & trails)

-Hill Climbs that include sandy 47-50 degree 3-700 foot climbs, hard pack with ledges & gravel covered 48 degree short 100-200 foot climbs.

-Arroyos which are like dry creek beds cut in to open areas feeding rivers in most cases. They are narrow with steep walls, switchbacks, hairpins, small drop-offs and are usually loose or soft bottomed. Sport quad riders love them. I rolled mine clipping a wall once.

-Simulated Drag Racing Just as it sounds, from zero to top end fully pinned on a dirt road. Simulated because I was alone. No matter, none of my buds will run me any more anyway.

I started out on the Desert trails, which wind out of some small hills onto the desert floor. Noticed it was better behaved over the whoops and off camber conditions right off the bat. In fact, I had to push it a bit to get the tail to swing while playing. George said it would control fishtailing, and boy he was right. Woops had far less impact on the arms as the stabilizer caught the wheel impacts at the stem. On one I stuck it a little on the way out and up she went, however she noised down into the next one on angle. Prepared for a bar snap as she hit…but didn’t happen. Wheel stayed straight and landed just fine. Excited about this I started picking up the pace. The bike now naturally wanted to keep a straight line and it was now the rider that would cause the bike to whip around, not the trail. Steering and cornering in sand was positive and well behaved. The act of over correcting seems to have been reduced drastically if not completely eliminated.




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I made it out of the hills to the flats in record time where I let her graze over open rocky fields. The faster I went, the more the stabilizer held on. I found I could ride with one hand over very rough fields of clumps and rocks. I found it very strange the amount of reacting we do from input we get from the trail, and when much of that is taken out, that leaves more time for action…or increased aggressive riding. This could get one into trouble. The Brute behaved so differently that a couple of times I thought to myself “Who’s bike is this?” I became more fearless and started riding it more like a sport bike. In short, the control gain was unbelievable and one might find himself pushing it harder to get back closer to that “edge”. You know about the "edge"...right? That's the point where a rider feels his toes are just across the line between in and out of control. Pushing the limit or envelope you might say.

The next condition was Arroyos, where agility and control counts. With the sway bar off, there were some limitations as to the power turning but it still didn’t slow me down to the most part. These are like little canyons with twists & turns, hairpins and in my case this day, one collapsed canyon wall just around one blind turn. With no time to stop I did a full lockup and fully expected the back end to come around and impact this wall of dirt as it has in the past, but no.. she stayed straight and I was able to twitch the bars enough to line up on a spot that would take me over the top, clicked it in FWD and headed over it like a pro. Wow. I think the only explanation is that the bike uses the stem as a pivot point and when a steering stabilizer is bridged between the frame and stem, it works both ways. The pivot point now has a damper on it, so it can’t start to pivot around without your help. That’s cool…most of the time. If one wanted to play he/she could just adjust this stabilizer a few clicks looser and it would act like it was off. Anyway, even with this blockage, I ran the Arroyo in record time and no feeling of tightness in my shoulders or forearms. I then headed back to the hills for some climbing tests.

On the hill climbs I first off found that what I call “Torque-Steer” was almost eliminated in FWD and in full diff-lock. In just FWD with this initial setting I couldn’t feel any torque steer at all and was able to run a straighter line up to the top then ever before. In fact, I found I used the diff-lock much less. Even on rutty hills with outcropping ledges, the line to the top was much straighter and the bike deflected almost not at all by these bumps and ruts. I then decided to see if I could take the “Torque Steer” out completely and set the stabilizer two notched tighter. This is when I discovered that you really do want some of this to get to your hands. The best way I can describe it is first, what I call “Torque Steer” is better classified as “Traction Steer” for us. In full lock, when one tire looses traction, the other pulls in that direction turning the steering in that direction. You turn it back quickly to maintain your line and before the frame changes course much. Well, I can tell you that two-notch tighter setting will in fact take out 100% of the effect this has on the bars. You will feel no torque/traction steer. But because it was stopped at the stem, and the front wheels did not move, something has to happen, so the bike will jump in the direction of the tire with the traction. It’s like someone picked up your front end, moved it over 5-10 degrees, and set it down. That meant the whole bike is now off your line and you have to turn it back. So, this setting is not good for use with the diff-lock on hills. It’s still OK in just 4WD or 2WD and it will take out more bump-steer and a lower speed, so rough trail riding will be better, but not hill climbing in full lock. That was the only time all day that I felt any pucker factor…and it was a dozy. Did it three times just to confirm that’s what it was doing.

One last test was the simulated drag race. All three takeoffs were smooth and straight, no fishtailing in 2 or 4 wheel drive. You guys that drag race should like that! On up to 55+ smooth as glass except on mine, I have some wobble from my tires that used to come through to the bars and shake, but not any more. I can still feel it in the frame, but its stopped at the stabilizer at the stem. Very cool.


So, in summary, I love it! I liked the ability to either be way-in control or adjust it off if I wanted. The adjustability is fantastic. It was only a four-hour ride, but I needed no breaks and just wanted to hit more stuff. I think any stabilizer will greatly increase a rider’s control and remove lots of the input that causes stress & pump to the upper body. I also think there are those out there that like living on the edge, and for those, maybe a stabilizer shouldn’t be in their future, nor for those that mostly mud and just ride trails to get to the mud. It wouldn’t be worth it. But if you take long rides in the back country, travel over rough areas and want a better, less pounding experience or want to be taken to a new level of control so you can ride more aggressively and confidently, well a stabilizer is for you, and I do highly recommend this one. George and his staff at Precision Racing Products period. And… it’s the only one specifically designed for the Brute Force… and not just some....all of them! A great product, built right here in the USA</ST1:p


Precision Racing Products
Tel 209-365-1850
Fax 209-365-1692
Email SALES@PRECISION-RP.COM
 
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1
#27 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Brutal rider @ Apr 21 2009, 05:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Thanks, I never new that, Precision Racing Stabilize it is. Now just waiting for my tax refund to show up. r[/b]
Just for FYI, and everyone else gathering information on stabilizers, here is an artical about most of the stabilizers on the market. It was the reason I went to Precision and are the only ones that now make an application just for the Brute Force. Enjoy.

http://www.atvsport.com/output.cfm?id=1650619
 
#28 ·
These look like awesome add-ons. I have one question though...what kind of shock are you adding to your tie-rods and ball joints with these? The shock has to be going somewhere...does the dampener take all of it?

Cheers

Chris
 
#29 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (csw1510 @ Apr 22 2009, 09:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
These look like awesome add-ons. I have one question though...what kind of shock are you adding to your tie-rods and ball joints with these? The shock has to be going somewhere...does the dampener take all of it?

Cheers

Chris[/b]
Nothing to the ball joints realy but I recommend upgrading the rods and ends. The OEMs bend anyway and most of us change them out pretty fast any way. The stabilizer takes the hit and transfers it through itself to the frame, but that means what ever is between the wheel and the stabilizer mount will have to be strong enough to take it. George with Precision Racing told me that he has seen an impact with a tree that ripped both a-frames(upper and lower) from the bike and caused no damage to any part of the unit, the upgraded rods & ends or...more importantly, the rider who today still swars his life was saved by his stabilizer.
 
#30 ·
Ordered mine today and thanks BF Freak for the review that was encouraging I'm not buying a bad product.After doing a lot of web searching I'm confident the product is well worth the extra money.
 
#31 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Brutal rider @ Apr 22 2009, 03:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Ordered mine today and thanks BF Freak for the review that was encouraging I'm not buying a bad product.After doing a lot of web searching I'm confident the product is well worth the extra money.[/b]
And you know, when you sell your Brute, you can keep the stabilizer and put it on your next machine, and if its not a Brute, you can just buy the mount from Precision for the machine.

One other note,remember what I said about torking and making sure the alignment is right before you lock everything into place. And on the stem bracket, its made special to vice-in around the stem and push a set pin into the stem as you tork-down, so when you do tighted it, make sure its even and the gap between the two halfs close evenly, and again,watch the tork values. For some reason, my tork wrench wouldn't click when it should and I ended up getting some new bolts from Lowe's bolt bin.
 
#33 ·
QUOTE (Brutal rider @ Apr 22 2009, 03:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>


And you know, when you sell your Brute, you can keep the stabilizer and put it on your next machine, and if its not a Brute, you can just buy the mount from Precision for that machine.
Looked into that today because a barely used one was selling at a good price. I thought $60-$100 but they are $180
 
#32 · (Edited)
!! The 500 Mile Report !!

Well its been 500 miles now and time for a report on the Precision Steering Stabilizer for the Brute.

A full inspection of the unit was done and the findings were:

* All bolts held their tork
* No movement in the mounting at any point
* No movement of the stem mount.
* No noticeable wear of the arm bushings and no service was ever done.
* No leaks in the unit itself
* No change in the unit's characteristics from new.

Being used to the control and comfort the unit gave, I decided to take the arm off and take it for a ride just to remind myself what it was like before. Man..within the first few hundred feet I went from my normal relaxed state to almost a white-knuckle state with that old death grip back on the bars as it seemed I felt everything on the trail impacting my hands. After only a half a mile I was feeling it back in the shoulders too. Needless to say I stopped and put the arm back on. Its staying on..especialy with these new 11" tires!

In summary, this application can be classified in only one way - "BRUTE CERTIFIED". More then worth the money. I highly recommend it for yours.
 
#34 ·
Well its been 500 miles now and time for a report on the Precision Steering Stabilizer for the Brute.

A full inspection of the unit was done and the findings were:

* All bolts held their tork
* No movement in the mounting at any point
* No movement of the stem mount.
* No noticeable wear of the arm bushings and no service was ever done.
* No leaks in the unit itself
* No change in the unit's characteristics from new.

Being used to the control and comfort the unit gave, I decided to take the arm off and take it for a ride just to remind myself what it was like before. Man..within the first few hundred feet I went from my normal relaxed state to almost a white-knuckle state with that old death grip back on the bars as it seemed I felt everything on the trail impacting my hands. After only a half a mile I was feeling it back in the shoulders too. Needless to say I stopped and put the arm back on. Its staying on..especialy with these new 11" tires!

In summary, this application can be classified in only one way - "BRUTE CERTIFIED". More then worth the money. I highly recommend it for yours.
Have about 1000km on mine.No problems. Use to take two advil before I went riding to stop the pain in my shoulders, not any more since I put it on. One of the best mods I did
 
#36 ·
I to am from NM and ride a lot in CO. I own a "08" Brute. I envy the guys with power steering!
Did you purchase the Pro or Std model of this stabilizer?
TORK
08 Brute with a few mods
I got the pro. Best thing I ever did for the Brute. Next best thing to power steering.

Where abouts are you? I'm in Albuquerque and SWBF900 is in Los Alamos.
 
#37 ·
TORK is from Albuq, he bought my 08BF.
Presently he has a tube type of a Gibson steering stabilizer, the one I installed and the same one I have on my Team Green. When I do wear out this present Gibson, I will go ahead and get the Precision upgrade, so I can compare the two types, too bad that other company hasn't gotten around to offering their Stabilizer for us Brutes owners but that is the way it goes.
The steering on the 08-10 Brutes is so much easier than the non FI 750's. Elkbow has PS on his new 850, stays it is nice in the slow going to man handle the Big heavy weight Polaris but doesn't care for it when the speeds pick up, over 25.
There is a aftermarket Powersteering unit available TORK, invest in it if you really feel you need it but, if you continue to ride two on the Brute, then just get a 2-seater w/ps already included-go all out and get the Cat Touring 700/1000, Cats are still better than any Canned-Hammed, IMO. lol..:funnycanam::funnycat:
A Brute 2-seater is still at least another model yr wait.
 
#40 ·
Yes, Torkbob may be listening to others way too much, I would Never do wrong to my Best friend Bob(Tork).Tork asked me about the stock tie-rods but TORK didn't do anything about it, then I get blamed for it. Bunch of B.S.
I'm not sure if Tork blames me or not but since he Never spoke up about it and let some other knucklehead speak for him.
The other Brute was my 05, sold to another Friend & those Hemi ends had 3000 rough miles on the them when one let go just Last Month on a Trip up in Colorado but again I warned the Owner of the 05BF750 that it might not be a bad idea to replace the ends w/new units last year. I noticed his rear stabilizer Joints were worn-out when I helped him do the Sway-bar bushing upgrade but he didn't like the price on a new set of Tie-rod ends, so he let it go--His Choice but again, I get blamed for it--Go Figure. And No, he didn't replace the rear worn-out stabilizer joints either.

I'm sure some of you have heard the warnings of selling your stuff to Friends- never again..
The 05BF750 friend traded in the broken Brute for a canned-ham.:funnycanam:
 
#51 ·
Well, the speeds he rides at, a 500 would do him fine but the 500 c/a 2 seater has a single a/arm on the front w/struts, for a little extra dollars and if he thinks the canned-ham is his best choice, buy the 650.
:funnycanam::funnycanam::funnycanam::funnycanam::funnycanam:
 
#52 ·
Noticed on eBay there is a steering stabilizer called "Streamline". Anyone know anything about this one? $119 for non-rebuildable version and $139 for rebuildable version.
 
#53 · (Edited)
Noticed on eBay there is a steering stabilizer called "Streamline". Anyone know anything about this one? $119 for non-rebuildable version and $139 for rebuildable version.
Streamline and Gibson are the best and most trusted of the stick-type steering dampers. SWBF900 has a Gibson and has worked out well with no problems.
 
#56 ·
The rebuildable kits run around $25, way cheaper than buying a new stabilizer. Wear time consist of where and how hard you ride. Also, if you mount the Stabilizer incorrect-it will wear out in 100 miles. Just remember to mount it so it doesn't bind, moves freely on the sivil ends and it should last for years.
 
#57 ·
We ride in quite a bit of dirt, mud and water here in WV, so it sounds like the rebuildable model might be the better investment.
 
#58 ·
Just installed the Streamline 11-way steering stabilizer this evening. I put some pics in my garage if anyone wants to check it out.
 
#60 ·
Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to really test it yet. I'll be sure to post back here when I do. The weather hasn't been cooperating, so it's difficult to plan a ride...
 
#62 ·
I finally had an opportunity to test all the modifications I've made in the past several months. The steering stabilizer being one of them. It was hard to appreciate how much of a difference it made at first, because my attention was drawn to how much power the Big Gun and MSD were helping the Brute make. Truly the best power mods I've ever done to an ATV. At some point, I began to realize how nice the steering felt. Zero kickbacks! I rode as hard as I ever have on the Brute yesterday and not once did I lose the handlebars on a rock, root or rut. Very impressed!
 
#63 ·
I finally had an opportunity to test all the modifications I've made in the past several months. The steering stabilizer being one of them. It was hard to appreciate how much of a difference it made at first, because my attention was drawn to how much power the Big Gun and MSD were helping the Brute make. Truly the best power mods I've ever done to an ATV. At some point, I began to realize how nice the steering felt. Zero kickbacks! I rode as hard as I ever have on the Brute yesterday and not once did I lose the handlebars on a rock, root or rut. Very impressed!
Yeah and in a few months when you get all used to it, do what I did and take it loose from the stem and go for a ride without it. I tell you.. I was suddenly riding white-knuckled....felt everything again..and stopped right there on the trail and put it back on...not going to ride without it again. :p
 
#64 ·
DLB, did you get a top speed yet?
 
#65 ·
I managed to hit 70 mph on a slight uphill grade before running out of road, and it was still building speed when I had to let off. 75 coming back down, but that doesn't really count. I need to find a road with a zero grade like you can find in Kansas! That's the fastest I've ever been on an ATV. It was a little scary, but I never felt out of control. :p
 
#66 ·
Awesome! Yeah we have pletny of the flat crap for sure. That speed is nuts and inpressive that you still felt comfortable, sounds like a good combination of goodies.
 
#68 ·
Me too, Still got some go at 60 but feel like I'm ditch to ditch and on that razor's edge... this old body has been through enough wrecks, broke bones, scars, road rash to last two more life times. I don't like rollin the dice much anymore.... I get out around 60 too.
 
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