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post #1 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hello all!

My name's Ryan and i have a Kawasaki bf 650 4x4i. It does run but not well haha. So I'm here to learn about these things and see if i can't fix my quad haha. Forgive me ahead of time i know your typical stuff check plugs, check fuel, etc. But i don't really know anything specific about bikes/quads in general.
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post #2 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 03:37 PM
 
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Welcome Ryan. Hope we can help.

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post #3 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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So this is the intro section yes? I should post my issues else where?
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post #4 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 04:46 PM
 
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So this is the intro section yes? I should post my issues else where?
If you want but we're not fussy.

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post #5 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ooh awesome! Thank you! Well i know she's back firing real hard on the back cylinder. I changed plugs. And can see fuel going in. But there's these sliding flap things and the rear cylinder doesn't move at all. The front seems to be doing just fine. What exactly are those flaps and what's making them work?
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post #6 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 06:10 PM
 
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Ooh awesome! Thank you! Well i know she's back firing real hard on the back cylinder. I changed plugs. And can see fuel going in. But there's these sliding flap things and the rear cylinder doesn't move at all. The front seems to be doing just fine. What exactly are those flaps and what's making them work?
Those are the CV (Constant Velocity) slides. All CV carbs have them. They are vacuum operated. You should know that no Kawasaki ATV will run correctly with the air box lid off as they run way too lean. But, if one slide doesn't operate it either means the valve lash needs adjusting, the cylinder isn't producing the vacuum it needs for some other reason or...and this happens a lot...the diaphragm that operates the slide has failed...ie has a crack or split. Of course the slide might be sticking in the track but a flip with your finger would tell that. Another thing that happens a lot is that the rubber boots that mount the carbs to the heads get split...and that usually happens at or under the head-side clamp.

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post #7 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ooh boy lol. Sounds like ima be in for some fun. Well i can say for sure theslide isn't stuck and it has zero movement. Just at idle the flap that still works pulses with the stroke. Where the other does zilch lol. I will say i wish they weren't such a pain in the ass to get the body panels off haha.
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post #8 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Also can i use silicone boots instead of the rubber? Are there any simple material upgrades i cando? I don't want any extra go i just want it reliable
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post #9 of 12 Old July 7th, 2019, 07:53 PM
 
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Also can i use silicone boots instead of the rubber? Are there any simple material upgrades i cando? I don't want any extra go i just want it reliable
The carb boots are a special fit for the heads and the carbs so I don't think you will find any other then OEM. Just don't over tighten the clamps. People's biggest mistake.

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post #10 of 12 Old July 8th, 2019, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok cool. Well thank you for the guidance! I suppose my last question is could i bother anyone for some good sites to check out for parts?
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