Proper tuning for a swamp series HMF on a 2006 BF 750 - Kawasaki Brute Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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Proper tuning for a swamp series HMF on a 2006 BF 750

So I had to replace my stock exhaust that was starting to rot pretty good. I didnt want anything too incredibly loud so I ended up finding a pretty good deal on an HMF swamp series. I'm not a big mudder so no snorkeling. I have a dynatek CDI box and a twin air air filter(if that really matters or not). The HMF website says to go with 165 and 155 jets for this but that's with a snorkel. I dont know if the jetting is different if its snorkeled or not but my throttle response is kind crappy. I have 2 washers on my slide needles totalling .045 which is what dynatek said I needed for that. Do I need to change the jetting again? More or less spacing on my needles?
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post #2 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
 
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Fyi...air box cover is on, carbs are secure to the intake and boots are in good shape. Just had the valves a adjusted recently as well
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post #3 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 11:37 AM
 
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Generally with the Dynatek CDI yes, you will want between .020-.040 shims on the needles. This is about 1/2 a main jet size and helps with the transition off the slow circuit to the main. However as the CDI also adds 5 degrees of spark advance to the ignition even at idle, you "may" also need to go up on the pilot jet from #38 to #40. If she is kind of doggy off idle this may be the problem but if the float levels are on the high end of the range it may not be necessary. As for the muffler, most slip-ons will require a main jet change-usually 1-2 sizes up from stock. Most full systems will require 2-4 sizes up from stock. Remember that the needle shims have already given you a 1/2 size....and never use Dynojet jets, only keihin. And lastly, it's been proven that TwinAir filter media had many direct paths through their media and as such lets small dust particles straight into the engine shortening it's life. You are better off with either the Unifilter or the stock replacements.

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post #4 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ok I shouldve mentioned that my pilots are already #40. I'll definitely look at getting new air filter. Other than that what would you suggest I do as far as tuning on that? Throttle is definitly sluggish
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post #5 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 12:23 PM
 
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Ok I shouldve mentioned that my pilots are already #40. I'll definitely look at getting new air filter. Other than that what would you suggest I do as far as tuning on that? Throttle is definitly sluggish
If you have #40 pilots and it is sluggish right off idle the float levels may already be too high and the #40 are over-fueling it. Still..for the jet change to be effective the float levels must be close to the center of the outlined range. See the manual. And what HMF suggests for mains sounds about right even without snorkels.

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post #6 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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So if I read that right, my next move is to make sure the float is adjusted properly?
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post #7 of 35 Old October 31st, 2019, 12:34 PM
 
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So if I read that right, my next move is to make sure the float is adjusted properly?
Well, yes. Step one is always ensure all things are set in the proper working range as outlined in the service manual. Fload levels, valve lash, A/F controls between 2.25-2.50 turns out, compression, fuel supply...ect. And all parts are in good shape like the carb boots, CVT slides and diaphragms, exhaust gaskets...ect.

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post #8 of 35 Old November 4th, 2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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My pilot screws were 3 turns out. I'm guessing that might have been part of the problem? Should I go 2.25 or 2.5?
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post #9 of 35 Old November 4th, 2019, 07:05 PM
 
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My pilot screws were 3 turns out. I'm guessing that might have been part of the problem? Should I go 2.25 or 2.5?
Try 2.25 ea.

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post #10 of 35 Old November 4th, 2019, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Will do. Thanks
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