Crank Bolt removal 08 BF 650 KVF 4x4i - Kawasaki Brute Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old January 23rd, 2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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Crank Bolt removal 08 BF 650 KVF 4x4i

Hi all, I am new to the forums. Hopefully, someone here can help me before I break something expensive.

I am attempting to replace what I think is known as the "Starter Drive Idle Gear Sprocket". It's a small gear with a built-in clutch that sits close to the starter so when the starter is activated, it engages this gear that in turn rotates a chain to turn over the engine.

I have read other posts where people have broken off the head of the crank bolt. I don't want to break it and I don't know if the bolt is lefty loosy/righty tighty or is it left handed thread. My service/repair manual doesn't specify this task anywhere so I ended up here.

Can anyone help me out? It is very much appreciated. I am a farmer and depend heavily on my 4x4 working as it is a work vehicle.
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post #2 of 9 Old January 23rd, 2019, 12:57 PM
 
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Well, first, there no chain attached to the starter drive. Its gears to that one-way spragg and sometimes it does break the teeth on the larger one. Ok, crank bolts 101- on any with splines it can not slip so those are most always right handed no matter what side of the engine it is. This one is NOT splined, it is tapered fit like the primary clutch on the other side except it does have a keyway. No matter, on all these if you hold the bolt and rotate the engine in it normal direction it MUST tighten the bolt, not loosen it. So, on the clutch side looking at it straight on the engine rotates from 12:00 to 1:00 so turning the bolt from 12:00 to 11:00 would tighten it. This means you must turn it in the direction of rotation, from 12:00 to 1:00 to loosen it...and there is an arrow on the clutch that shoes the direction for loosening it. That makes it a left-handed bolt as it moves to the left to tighten it..in otherwords not righty-tighty...but rigfhty-loosy. Now for the other side: looking straight on it, the engine turns from 12:00 to 11:00 normaly and holding the bolt here tighten it so from 12:00 to 1:00. Just the opposite of the other side. So in this case, same thing again, moving it in the direction of the engine will loosen it, so...Righty-tighty and lefty-loosy. From 12:00 to 11:00, to the left, will loosen it.



Bu the way you can hold the crank pretty well by using a tire-iron through the primary clutch...I'm told.

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post #3 of 9 Old January 23rd, 2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you NMKAWIERIDER for the clarification. I will also look for the arrow too.
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post #4 of 9 Old January 23rd, 2019, 09:08 PM
 
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Thank you NMKAWIERIDER for the clarification. I will also look for the arrow too.
Won't be an arrow on the rotor/flywheel bolt. Only on the clutch. Good luck...and ease into it. They are torqued to something like 94ftlbs. Check the manual....and be sure to re-torque to the spec....and don't use an impact on it.

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post #5 of 9 Old January 26th, 2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hi all, I thought I'd provide you an update and a follow-up question at the end of this reply.

As it turns out, after removing the side plate, the following gears were destroyed and had to be replaced.

Starter Gear - P/N 16085-12387
Starter Limiter - P/N 39076-0005
One way Clutch - P/N 13194-1094
The first 2 gears were made of a plastic/metal composite material and were shattered, pieces of it falling into the oil pan. Had to fish out any pieces using a magnet, etc and change oil/filter.

Here's the question. After speaking with some certified ATV mechanics in town, I was told the likely reason my one way clutch failed was caused by me using a full synthetic oil instead of the recommended oil. That doesn't sound logical to me by any means, does it to you?

I use full synthetic in everything I own with no issues whatsoever and have for years.
My tractor, my lawn mower, and my other 4 vehicles.

Do you guys know if there's any validity at all as to the likelihood of the explanation I was given?
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post #6 of 9 Old January 26th, 2019, 10:50 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Ron Reynolds View Post
Hi all, I thought I'd provide you an update and a follow-up question at the end of this reply.

As it turns out, after removing the side plate, the following gears were destroyed and had to be replaced.

Starter Gear - P/N 16085-12387
Starter Limiter - P/N 39076-0005
One way Clutch - P/N 13194-1094
The first 2 gears were made of a plastic/metal composite material and were shattered, pieces of it falling into the oil pan. Had to fish out any pieces using a magnet, etc and change oil/filter.

Here's the question. After speaking with some certified ATV mechanics in town, I was told the likely reason my one way clutch failed was caused by me using a full synthetic oil instead of the recommended oil. That doesn't sound logical to me by any means, does it to you?

I use full synthetic in everything I own with no issues whatsoever and have for years.
My tractor, my lawn mower, and my other 4 vehicles.

Do you guys know if there's any validity at all as to the likelihood of the explanation I was given?
Kick-back is always the #1 reason these break on all Kawasaki engines. This happens because of three primary reasons and s few secondary. #1- cranking with low power or weak starter. #2-improper fuel mix with an aftermarket CDI which adds extra 5 degrees of spark advance. #3- Missing, stretched or weakened springs on the compression release flyweights also forces higher compression during starting which adds stress to the gears. Letting it idle too low when cold that lets it die and kick back also does it as well as those that have has their primary clutch modified to be lighter also increased kick-back on engine stop. You should know that in 2012 Kawasaki put extra HD gears in the 750s which do fit the pre-2012 750s. They should also fit the 650s.


So no, if anything the synthetic oil may allow the one-way to slip ..but that will never break the gear set.

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post #7 of 9 Old January 26th, 2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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So no, if anything the synthetic oil may allow the one-way to slip ..but that will never break the gear set.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for your explanation. Good info to know the extra HD gears would fit my 08 650. It sounds like you're recommending I stick with the recommended oil and not use the full synthetic (Rotella-T is what I was using in it).
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post #8 of 9 Old January 26th, 2019, 01:45 PM
 
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So no, if anything the synthetic oil may allow the one-way to slip ..but that will never break the gear set.

Thank you for your explanation. Good info to know the extra HD gears would fit my 08 650. It sounds like you're recommending I stick with the recommended oil and not use the full synthetic (Rotella-T is what I was using in it).
No, not really. No one has had any issues using any synthetic oil in any machine after 2008. Now if you find that it started using oil, that will be because they are still using the plated cylinders on the carbed 650s and that allows synthetic oils to bypass. In that case you better switch back to any good conventional. Oh and no one-way has ever slipped using synthetic oil either.

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post #9 of 9 Old January 26th, 2019, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you again. I will keep using my full synthetic oil then. I keep pretty close tabs on my machines and it does not use oil.
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