06 750 brute sputters when I try to go slow and put - Kawasaki Brute Forum
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post #1 of 37 Old July 30th, 2018, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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06 750 brute sputters when I try to go slow and put

Ok guys, kind of a weird issue here. When I try to go slow it kind of acts like its choking. It kinda spits and sputters but when i get on the throttleots fine. Its pretty much stock other than a dynatek CDI box. I've had this issue since i got it 2 years ago but i had a bunch of other issues i had to work through first and now it's just getting on my nerves.

It seems like when i first got it and had the carbs off I remember there being 2 small washers in each carb acting like spacers and I'm wondering if maybe it's getting too much air or something at low throttle. Sound familiar to anyone else? I wonder if I need to take one or both out
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post #2 of 37 Old July 30th, 2018, 04:29 PM
 
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There are two issues that most Brutes go through that can do what you are talking about. The first is from the choke plungers not sealing completely causing the ports to pull raw fuel all the time. This happens when water gets inn and the springs rust or any other reason for the plungers to not slide shut completely. Also happens with rusted cables or even twisted cables when the carbs were off they got put back on with a twist on the cables.


The other is running very lean but in some ways can act rich. This comes from a common problem with the carb boots splitting. They split because of over tightening and its most always at or under the head-side clamp(s) I went through three sets until I got it through my head it didn't take that much on the clamps.


Of course check your valve lash. That can also do that as well as a stuck tank vent check valve.

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post #3 of 37 Old July 30th, 2018, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by NMKAWIERIDER View Post
There are two issues that most Brutes go through that can do what you are talking about. The first is from the choke plungers not sealing completely causing the ports to pull raw fuel all the time. This happens when water gets inn and the springs rust or any other reason for the plungers to not slide shut completely. Also happens with rusted cables or even twisted cables when the carbs were off they got put back on with a twist on the cables.


The other is running very lean but in some ways can act rich. This comes from a common problem with the carb boots splitting. They split because of over tightening and its most always at or under the head-side clamp(s) I went through three sets until I got it through my head it didn't take that much on the clamps.


Of course check your valve lash. That can also do that as well as a stuck tank vent check valve.
I remember we had this conversation when I first got it. I actually had a bad boot but I replaced both boots. I also remember doing something with the plungers. I cant remember if I got new ones or not but I'll check the plungers and boots too. It seems like I remember something about those little washers for spacers though. Inside the carb. Some only needed 1 per carb and some needed 2. I know there were 2 in mine and I wonder if I should take 1 out
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post #4 of 37 Old July 30th, 2018, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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I got a new cable that's what it was. When I bought new boots I bought a new choke cable
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post #5 of 37 Old July 30th, 2018, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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All 4 boots look good
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post #6 of 37 Old July 30th, 2018, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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I was just reading another post that had the same issues as me (I also forgot to mention I have back firing through the carb as well) he mentioned something about turning the screw out on his carb and he used 3 washers. I dont think I ever messed with the mixture screw. I wonder if that's part of the issue
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post #7 of 37 Old July 31st, 2018, 08:46 AM
 
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The washers or needle shims are for raising the CV's main's needle. Does nothing for the slow circuit.

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post #8 of 37 Old July 31st, 2018, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
 
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Oh ok. It definitly acts like its sucking air from somewhere. I guess I just need to figure out where
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post #9 of 37 Old July 31st, 2018, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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I noticed yesterday that the little seal around the air box that the lid sits on was broke. It's still there but I have to get a new one. I cant imagine that would be my problem but I've seen weirder crap I guess....lol
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post #10 of 37 Old July 31st, 2018, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
 
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How do I check valve lash? And where is the tank vent check valve located?
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