couple ?'s

[mr_3_0_5]

well im going to look at a brute force today.. wanted to know from you guys what things to look for?
what type of compression #'s should these bikes have? what would you tell a newb to look for?

[NMKAWIERIDER]

Originally Posted by mr_3_0_5

well im going to look at a brute force today.. wanted to know from you guys what things to look for?
what type of compression #'s should these bikes have? what would you tell a newb to look for?

Well, tell us what you will be looking at, new, used, if used, what year such as 2005-2007 or 2008-2010. 650s or 750s. Stock machines or well modified.

Generaly for all Burtes (and most other atvs), check the suspension parts for looseness such as a-arm bushings and tierod ends and ball joints and wheel bearings. Engine-wise, 50-70psi on compression is Ok if I remember right. Look for evidance of water or mud in the airbox. Pull the dipstick and check for milky oil at the top by the threads. Do the same for both diffs and see that the oils are clean. Check that the diffs don't make any wierd noises and no extra play. That the muffler tip is not oily and black and that it does not smoke. That it runs smooth through all RPM ranges and no low-end clunking or high-end chinking sounds. A little tick is just tappets, so don't worry about that.

That's just general stuff for any ATV

[DPS]

KAWIRIDER...i dont mean to butt in, but a buddy of mine has a little low end clunking on his 06 650 SRA
What causes this and what is it?

[NMKAWIERIDER]

Originally Posted by DirtyPoopShoot

KAWIRIDER...i dont mean to butt in, but a buddy of mine has a little low end clunking on his 06 650 SRA
What causes this and what is it?

Low end clunking usualy comes one of three reasons. 1, and you won't like this one, a loose rod bearing causing a knock. This usualy doesn't stop as the RPMs go up but gets worse with power on and less with power off...such as coming down from a higher RPM. 2, worn piston skirts and/or broken rings. On power strokes the loose-fitting piston is kicked to one side tapping the skirt against the cylinder. This usualy decreases as the RPMs increase and less when at tempature. Broken rings won't make any noise untill they wear the ring groove to a point ther start flipping up and down. These turn into a different kind of noise at higher RPMs ...like a scraping with a tick. Oil burning and/or lower compression also comes with broken rings. and 3, which is what mine does, with too much spark advance at idle, the strain or action on the wristpin tends to send the play of the rod has when the piston is cold- side to side impacting the stops on the piston. It tends to stop when it warms up like mine does. This happens more when you use an aftermarket CDI. I can put my stock CDI back in and it quits. There are some other things too that cause noise such as loose clutch parts/weights, main bearings, oil pump gearing or fitment but these are the main causes.