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Brute Central Forums » Brute Forums » Articles » How To: Differential Mod to Stop the Failures.

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by maxitout77 April 1st, 2009

I have this posted up on Highlifter, will lots of great feedback. Hope Ya'll find it usefull.



After my 2nd BF750 front diff failure, I figured I would share some of my knowledge. I can't take 100% credit here, another member here on Highlifter gave me the idea, I simply put it into action and made a write up.

The basic problem with the front diff is the spider gears. The spider gears ride on a cross shaft in heart of the front differetial. The issue is the clearnace between these gears and the cross shaft. There is next zero tollerence between the shaft and the gears (no, there are no bearing, its metal on metal). Under general riding condition this is not an issue, but with big pwoer, big tires, and watery crappy conditions, this can cause a failure. Bascally, the gears will seize onto the shaft due to lack of lubrication and overheating. This failure be as minor as having the front end in a permanant diff lock, or as serious as an actual differential explosion. I've scene both.

In order to correct this problem, we need to modify the cross shaft to allow oil to flow in between the gears, and the shaft. This can be done with either an angle grinder or a dremel. You just need to notch or grind the shaft slighly to allow oil to flow between the gears and the shaft.

This 1st picture shows happens to the cross shaft when the spiders seize up on it. you can see just how hot the shaft got before sezing

The 2nd pic is the diff torn down on the bench. The spider gears I'm referring to are the smaller ones

The 3rd pic is the fresh new shaft in the vice. Not the greatest pic, but you can see my cut. By the way, the cross shaft and new pins came to a grand total of $13

And finally the shaft cut out (last pic), and the spider gear in place. You can see, the basic idea is just to allow some oil to make its way in between the two. I cut the notch in both sides to be safe. Enjoy!

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Last edited by NMKAWIERIDER; March 13th, 2011 at 12:57 PM.
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Old April 1st, 2009, 10:02 AM   #2
 
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Old April 1st, 2009, 10:31 AM   #3
 
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Good info
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Old April 1st, 2009, 11:28 AM   #4
 
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Awesome idea. When my front diff goes I will be doing this myself.

Thanks for the write up.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 11:04 PM   #5
 
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I don't like the idea of the gears spinning on that rod with no bearings. This mod has to help with the oiling issue. (or lack there of) Thanks for the good info.
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Old June 25th, 2010, 11:44 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by 2010BruteRider View Post
I don't like the idea of the gears spinning on that rod with no bearings. This mod has to help with the oiling issue. (or lack there of) Thanks for the good info.
Yeah well, keep it full and clean and you probably will never have an issue. At first when new change it pretty often as the diff-loc disks wear-in . Then every 500 miles or so. More often if it starts getting dark or grayish and of course if water gets in...right away a few times. Hard to see the junk in the oil from the top but if you pull the plug and let just a little out, it will tell you if its time to change it or not. It fills slow so take your time and make sure its to the top of the threads on the cap. I actualy lift that side of the bike up so it actual overfills just a tad. That puts those gears,pin and slide coupling well in oil all the time. and no, its not hard on the seals.
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Old June 28th, 2010, 12:37 AM   #7
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Ok so since it was posted in 2009 has there been a failure since or has it worked? At first mine did the diff locked all the time and then started growling like the spiders were eating each other. I really need to get it torn out and see if there is anything left in there. Looks like a real pain to get out of the bike. Been real busy and use it a lot on the farm so I haven't gotten around to taking it apart when I still need to use it.

I like that idea NMK I think overfilling it a bit is good insurance. I do that on a lot of heavy equipment gearboxes that run at bad angles and it has always helped.
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Old June 28th, 2010, 01:35 AM   #8
 
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I too change mine often, like every other ride, why not - it is so easy and takes such little time to do it.
For refilling, I just jack up the frt end till the ties clear the floor, use a long funnel, measure the exact refill oil and slowy pour in the new fresh oil, while turning the tire to pull the fresh oil in and over the gears. I don't spill a drop, put the filler cap back on, jack it down and on to the rear end case, which I do less often.
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Old June 28th, 2010, 02:21 AM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nar View Post
Ok so since it was posted in 2009 has there been a failure since or has it worked? At first mine did the diff locked all the time and then started growling like the spiders were eating each other. I really need to get it torn out and see if there is anything left in there. Looks like a real pain to get out of the bike. Been real busy and use it a lot on the farm so I haven't gotten around to taking it apart when I still need to use it.
Sounds like you have a job ahead of you. Good luck.
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Old March 13th, 2011, 12:44 PM   #10
 
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FYI: the pics are not working in this thread anymore. I found his post on HL and they work there so i'm good, but just thought i'd post it so you know. Maybe its just me??

Got my front diff out of the Brute so i think i'll do this mod while its out.
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