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July 22nd, 2010, 05:46 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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a-arm bushing removal question
so I have the right a-arm off (the pin bearing just fell apart with rust.) had to remove which front bumper to get that bolt out very long..
But I can't get the rest of the inside of the upper arm out of the housing.
Any suggestion?
Laine
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07 Brute 750i Camo, VDI, HMF Utility full, K&N filter EHS Airbox Lid, 26" Mudwolfs on ITP 212+2 black, Dalton dka 6570mt clutch springs, ASR T-rod/ends, full skid plates.
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July 22nd, 2010, 10:44 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laine
so I have the right a-arm off (the pin bearing just fell apart with rust.) had to remove which front bumper to get that bolt out very long..
But I can't get the rest of the inside of the upper arm out of the housing.
Any suggestion?
Laine
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I forget if any side had any sirclips, but of course you can see those after removing the seals. They both fit kinda tight in the housing but with a long punch you can get one side out then the sleeve falls out. Then the other side can be worked out with that same punch. If rusted...and sounds like it is, a good soaking with PB stray or liquid wrench overnight wouldn't hurt. You will have to squeeze the new parts back in. I used pipe clamp and it worked great. You will want to tap and put grease fittings in. Just near the center and angled out to make it easy to get to when all is together.
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July 23rd, 2010, 03:35 AM
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#3
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going out tomorrow to buy the grease fitting kit, will have to pick up longer pounces tomorrow it's I sprayed it down with liquid wrench and will let it sit..
Laine
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07 Brute 750i Camo, VDI, HMF Utility full, K&N filter EHS Airbox Lid, 26" Mudwolfs on ITP 212+2 black, Dalton dka 6570mt clutch springs, ASR T-rod/ends, full skid plates.
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July 23rd, 2010, 09:20 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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A lot of people are going with these bushing replacements over the OEM bearings. They are working out very well.
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Dynatek CDI |TwinAir Filter | Catch Can | Precision Pro Stabilizer | Perma-Cool Oil Cooler | Diamond "G" Tie Rods & Ends | Energy Swaybar Bushings | OMI Stem Bushing | Ricochet Skid Plates | HL Bumper | Direction2 Overfenders
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laine (July 28th, 2010), nar (September 4th, 2010) |
July 23rd, 2010, 09:31 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kamloops British Columbia, Canada
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i put my a-arms in a vice and used a socked to pound the guts out of them. works perfect. did the same thing installing new ones.
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July 27th, 2010, 11:47 PM
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#6
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Well got it all popped out (took a bit) and new bushing kit back in. Thanks you for everyone for the replys on how to get the old stuff crud out, Feels nice and snug now.. anyway any tricks on getting the ball joint to stop spinning as I try and tighten the nut down.
Laine
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07 Brute 750i Camo, VDI, HMF Utility full, K&N filter EHS Airbox Lid, 26" Mudwolfs on ITP 212+2 black, Dalton dka 6570mt clutch springs, ASR T-rod/ends, full skid plates.
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July 28th, 2010, 02:38 AM
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#7
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kamloops British Columbia, Canada
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I think I had that issue once and I used a pair of vice grips with a narrow nose on them to sneak it in there while I tightened the nut. either that, or get it snug, put the wheel on and take it for an easy ride to seat the ball joint better (its a tapperred shaft) remove the wheel and try again.
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July 28th, 2010, 02:43 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laine
Well got it all popped out (took a bit) and new bushing kit back in. Thanks you for everyone for the replys on how to get the old stuff crud out, Feels nice and snug now.. anyway any tricks on getting the ball joint to stop spinning as I try and tighten the nut down.
Laine
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The problem with any type of joint like these is that the pressure between the two surfaces has to be enough to keep it from turning and if the nut doesn't work smooth or its allowed to turn enough, it becomes almost impossible. For sure you want NO grease or anything on the surfaces and you want the nut to spin on with your fingers. You can preload it some using clamps and jacks...anything to put pressure on it, then get the nut on. Soon as it pulls down some it won't spin.
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July 28th, 2010, 02:10 PM
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#9
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ya about 3 or 4 turns in the nut gets a bit snug then the joint turns with it, I'll try the suggestions tonight thanks again.
Laine
__________________
07 Brute 750i Camo, VDI, HMF Utility full, K&N filter EHS Airbox Lid, 26" Mudwolfs on ITP 212+2 black, Dalton dka 6570mt clutch springs, ASR T-rod/ends, full skid plates.
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July 28th, 2010, 06:26 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laine
ya about 3 or 4 turns in the nut gets a bit snug then the joint turns with it, I'll try the suggestions tonight thanks again.
Laine
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If all else fails, pull it out, clean it up, and with a very sharp cole chizzle, tick-in some lines the run up and down not sideways in about 3 or 4 spots on the balljoint contact surface. That mught give you enough traction to get-r-tight.
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06 750 (Silver)
Dynatek CDI |TwinAir Filter | Catch Can | Precision Pro Stabilizer | Perma-Cool Oil Cooler | Diamond "G" Tie Rods & Ends | Energy Swaybar Bushings | OMI Stem Bushing | Ricochet Skid Plates | HL Bumper | Direction2 Overfenders
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