brute knocking

bruteboy · February 27th, 2010, 11:45 PM

my brute is knocking really bad i sounds like a rod is broke but im not sure it was over heating because i was low on oil hey it was leaking and didnt know there was a hole in the oil filter. wat could that knocking be? it dont make since for the rod to be broke or come lose it could be lose tho right?

1sickbrute · February 28th, 2010, 12:26 AM

If your engine is knocking the damage is all ready done and it needs to be rebuilt. A rod can't just come loose. Chances are if you ran it without oil, or very little oil for a long period of time you already did damage to the cylinder walls, rings, piston, and main bearings. I would pull the engine apart before you go any further riding it, just my two cents.

NMKAWIERIDER · February 28th, 2010, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1sickbrute

If your engine is knocking the damage is all ready done and it needs to be rebuilt. A rod can't just come loose. Chances are if you ran it without oil, or very little oil for a long period of time you already did damage to the cylinder walls, rings, piston, and main bearings. I would pull the engine apart before you go any further riding it, just my two cents.

Ditto. Sorry man...they can't be run without oil. No engine can.

bruteboy · February 28th, 2010, 01:44 AM

damn guys yall make me feel stupid i mean i changed it two weeks ago an have no clue how that hole got in the oil filter guess i better start tearin my baby down but she is gettin that mud buster cam gone fixer up right well guys i appriciate it and if yal have any info on how much trouble it is to rebuild and tips on rebuilding it let me know i just ordered my service manule be here wens hope it helps built mant bikes hope it aint any diffrent if it aint she will be right month tops

Adirondack Man · February 28th, 2010, 10:38 PM

Sorry to hear about your engine bruteboy. I am betting on the crank bearings being shot. With any luck your cylinder walls are not scored and you may get by with a new crank, rods, and pistons. Only way to tell is to tear the engine down. Good luck.

richracer1 · March 1st, 2010, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adirondack Man

Sorry to hear about your engine bruteboy. I am betting on the crank bearings being shot. With any luck your cylinder walls are not scored and you may get by with a new crank, rods, and pistons. Only way to tell is to tear the engine down. Good luck.

I agree, probably spun the rod and/or main bearings. If you spun either one of those types of bearings, your crank is toast and, if the mains spun, your cases may be toast as well.

I speak from experience, as I've had my share of these issues while I was roadracing my '93 ZX-7.

bruteboy · March 1st, 2010, 01:24 PM

if the walls are scored do i have to bore it or can i just put new sleeves in it? and how much would if run?thanks alot

richracer1 · March 1st, 2010, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruteboy

if the walls are scored do i have to bore it or can i just put new sleeves in it? and how much would if run?thanks alot

Personally, I'd be more worried about the crank and cases than the cylinders. I think cylinders can be found (new & used) or reworked fairly easily, but the crank and cases can not be repaired if you spun bearings.

richracer1 · March 1st, 2010, 03:23 PM

I did some searching and it appears that the cases are probably OK as Kawi uses roller/needle type bearing for the crank. Now, the one site I found that lists OEM parts, showed these prices:

$347 for each cylinder
$289 for a crankshaft
$715 for the crank case set (must be replaced as a set)

Plus all of the other required items to rebuild a Brute engine.

bruteboy · March 2nd, 2010, 11:08 AM

what would be better to do oem or aftermarket i found a stroke cranke with the rods included for 160 and a mudbuster cam for i think around 180 forged pistions for140 per set rigs and every thing what should i do they say the cam and the crank add bottom end and the pistions add throttle response what do yal recomend stock or aftermarket?