Whats wrong with my Brute?

DPS · February 8th, 2010, 12:39 PM

Its a 2006 BF750i..It was running fine when I first went out, then started to spit and spudder a little bit, and died by its self when it came down to an idle, then it didnt wanna start..I had to pump the gas several times as it was cranking ..Once it started it still had a loss in power but rode fine outta the woods..took it home and washed it off thinking it would start good once it was dry, (maybe i got water where it shouldnt have been) still the same problem..
When it starts it idles OK, but soon as i touch the gas it bogs out like its not advancing the burn the fuel
It has 225 hours and 845 miles on it

Please help!

NMKAWIERIDER · February 8th, 2010, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyPoopShoot

Its a 2006 BF750i..It was running fine when I first went out, then started to spit and spudder a little bit, and died by its self when it came down to an idle, then it didnt wanna start..I had to pump the gas several times as it was cranking ..Once it started it still had a loss in power but rode fine outta the woods..took it home and washed it off thinking it would start good once it was dry, (maybe i got water where it shouldnt have been) still the same problem..
When it starts it idles OK, but soon as i touch the gas it bogs out like its not advancing the burn the fuel
It has 225 hours and 845 miles on it

Please help!

Did you have it underwater over the front rack at all?
Does it run better if you nuge-on the choke just a little?
Have you tried draining the carb bowles to see if there was any water in them?
Have you pulled the fuel line off the carb intake and cranked to see if the supply was there?
Have you checked to see that the spark is strong?

Sounds like a fuel problem to me, but some tests need to be done first. Let us know the outcome of the above when finished.

DPS · February 8th, 2010, 09:53 PM

Went through it today,
Drained the bowls.. found no water
It has good spark on the wires but found the plugs were burnt black.. picked up new NGK CR8E's it had CR7E's just figured Id go one stage hotter..maybe try to burn a little better..One question is What are you guys running for plugs, Ive heard NGK Platinum's.. but whats the part number on them.. and how much would a CDI box help me.. I have a full Muzzy exhaust and a jet kit that was installed by the previous owner so im not sure what jet numbers it has..Also not sure what springs it has on the clutch kit..Its an EPI if that means anything

It does seem to start a little easier but its getting to late for me to go disturb the neighbors, so ill go run it around in the morning

Thanks KAWI for the input

NMKAWIERIDER · February 9th, 2010, 12:35 AM

Also, sometimes the choke valves stick or the cables stop being smooth. Might loosen the screw that holds the choke lever just a little to reduce the drag and see if there feels like a lot of slack between the all-the-way to the right...or shut abd starting to open them to the left. Should be about a 16th of an inch of play. Much more and you might have a stuch choke valbe or bound cable. Still, sounds like a supply problem. Maybe a bad fuel pump or something around the intake screen in the tank.

DPS · February 11th, 2010, 08:59 PM

Ok, checked the choke lever: the screw was a bit tight but there was a little slack in the line before it starts pulling the the choke open (right to left)
New plugs, and some how i was convinced that going higher on the on the number is hotter range, so in that result i went with a CR8E and the factory is CR7E, So im going to go back to Advanced auto parts, Punch the counter guy for telling me about the heat ranges then slap myself for believing him.. and try it all again,

Feels like it runs better(even with the colder plugs) but still seems weird that it wants to stall when i give it gas until it gets warm, and for me to get it to run I still gotta pump the gas when i start it..
If I start it with the choke on, soon as i touch the gas it wants to stall...It didnt used to to this.

I apologize for writing a book every time I respond, But im just trying to let yall know whats going on and what im changing...

And im going to re jet it this weekend, but it was running good before this last weekend..And it didnt go under water this past weekend is what really throws me off on all this..

Thank you for the replies..

Justin

NMKAWIERIDER · February 11th, 2010, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyPoopShoot

I still gotta pump the gas when i start it..
If I start it with the choke on, soon as i touch the gas it wants to stall...It didnt used to to this.

Justin

Pumping the throttle only opens and closed the butterfly. There isn't any eccelorator pump. So, this is saying its having trouble getting fuel through the pilot or slow supply circut. If its not a supply problem like fuel pump or stuff plugging the intake in the tank or the carbs needles & seats, then when you have it apart, be sure to pull the pilot jets and clean them and the tracks. Run some carb cleaner through them and blow with air. They are the small jets close to the mains. It may not be both, but one blocked will make it act like you are saying. The holes in the pilots are real small and can plug easy.

BrianMc · February 11th, 2010, 10:51 PM

I would probly stick with the stock heat temp plugs. might be okay to run the cr8e's for a little bit, but it could have long term effects on your engine.

I just run the stock ngk cr7e's. pick them up at the local autoparts store for 2 bucks a plug

DPS · February 12th, 2010, 08:59 AM

Alright, Ill give that a try and Ill stick with the stock heat range plugs..

What jet numbers should be in the carbs.. they're dyno jet jets as far as I know. Ive read ppl using 136/138 and 140/142.. 2nd and 3rd clip with 2.5-3 turns
Any recommendations?

Im running a stock CDI, fully Muzzy, K&N,
2.5" snorkel (it has (3) 90 degree bends and a 45* on top) not sure if that affects anything just figured id list it
And has a EPI clutch kit, Not sure of the color combination.

NMKAWIERIDER · February 12th, 2010, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyPoopShoot

Alright, Ill give that a try and Ill stick with the stock heat range plugs..

What jet numbers should be in the carbs.. they're dyno jet jets as far as I know. Ive read ppl using 136/138 and 140/142.. 2nd and 3rd clip with 2.5-3 turns
Any recommendations?

Im running a stock CDI, fully Muzzy, K&N,
2.5" snorkel (it has (3) 90 degree bends and a 45* on top) not sure if that affects anything just figured id list it
And has a EPI clutch kit, Not sure of the color combination.

No clue on the jets. On the advise of VFJ, I took my Dynojet kit out and rejeted with Factory jets and he was right, it runs much better. You on the other hand are not at 5600 feet like me and you do have some mods that require re-jetting in different directions such as...the Muzzy and K&N will need larger but the snorkel will need smaller....and with a stock CDI...that's different, most people replace the CDI first off with a dynatek. Hmmm...well, if I had to guess, I would go to the Dynojet web site and get the .pdf instructions for your kit and go with the setup for your elevation to start with. Then see if it runs too lean or rich and make final adjustments there.

DPS · February 12th, 2010, 11:46 AM

Ok, I was looking online for some CDI's, do I also need the Dynatek coil kit as well? seems like everyone on here never mentions anything about them.. So I might just order the Dynatek CDI rev box..
Yea it seemed weird to me as well that the previous owner did the K&N, Muzzy, and the other stuff and not the CDI..

If I get the CDI do I still need to down size the snorkel?