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March 9th, 2010, 06:37 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: West Chazy, NY
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I agree, with the equal length headers of the full Muzzy system, you end up jetting the mains the same front and rear.
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'03 Prairie 650 - Muzzy, Dyna CDI, Twin Air Powerflow, EHS lid, DG Snorkle, 82mm 11.5:1 pistons, BF750 crank, P700 connecting rods, YFZ catch can, Flynt trail porting, UPP intakes, AMR cams, rocker mod, MW oil cooler, Works struts, VFJ Stage 3 spider mod clutch, lightened secondary, Goodyear MT/R's on Douglas Rattlesnakes
'05 Polaris Sportsman 400
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March 10th, 2010, 10:43 AM
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#32
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flat Land fl.
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My mains are 140 and 146 Dynojet numbers... Are these smaller than stock? or are the dynojet's rated that much smaller..Maybe ill just run 146's front and rear.. I pulled the plugs yesterday and both are a little black... Whats a good opinion on that seems like its still running a little rich.
I was rolling through some water last weekend and it seems like i lose power going through the water..then seems to pick back up after i get back out..Everything on the bike is Noalox
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2006 Brute 750 4x4i
Gorilla axles, 28's, Full Muzzy, K&N, DJ Jet kit, Warn 2.5 Winch, Skid Plates, 2.5" snorkel
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March 10th, 2010, 03:37 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 6,012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPS
My mains are 140 and 146 Dynojet numbers... Are these smaller than stock? or are the dynojet's rated that much smaller..Maybe ill just run 146's front and rear.. I pulled the plugs yesterday and both are a little black... Whats a good opinion on that seems like its still running a little rich.
I was rolling through some water last weekend and it seems like i lose power going through the water..then seems to pick back up after i get back out..Everything on the bike is Noalox
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There is a jet chart in Burt Tech. If you are black, then richer isn't the way to go. Dynojet numbers is just different then Keihin
Seal-up the carb vent can that's in front of the airbox on the left side.
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06 750 (Silver)
Dynatek CDI |TwinAir Filter | Catch Can | Precision Pro Stabilizer | Perma-Cool Oil Cooler | Diamond "G" Tie Rods & Ends | Energy Swaybar Bushings | OMI Stem Bushing | Ricochet Skid Plates | HL Bumper | Direction2 Overfenders
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Last edited by NMKAWIERIDER; March 13th, 2010 at 07:42 PM..
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March 13th, 2010, 07:20 PM
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#34
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Salisbury, N.C.
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DPS
Throw the dyna-jet junk away. Shim the stock needles with 3 #4 flat washers, 38 pilots, and drill your main jets out to 1/16 drill bit size. Close off the stock intake opening with 2" rubber cap from plumbing dept. at Lowes/ home depot etc. Use EHS LID. You are using the Dyna CDI so tthat should get you screaming. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THE JETTING CHECK AND ADJUST YOUR VALVES, THE INTAKE VALVES ARE PROBABLY TIGHT. THAT IS CAUSING THE CRANKING AND IDLE PROBLEM. ADJUST THEM AT .007 INTAKE AND .008 EXHAUST. I highlighted the last sentances because that's the most important thing in this post. Any questions feel free to ask.
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BF 785 Highly modded
CWR MACH 3 CAMS
68.28 RWHP ON MOTOR
NOS EQUIPPED IF NEEDED
4.7 300ft. on motor 4.3 300ft. on NOS
Head work (valves, porting,etc.) BBK Kits
Complete Engine Work
BMK Performance* (PM for more info)
MUZZY DEALER
704 637-1207
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March 13th, 2010, 10:31 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 6,012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute Man Kelley
DPS
Throw the dyna-jet junk away.
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I am sure glad you said that Brute Man. A few years ago I was having problems with my kit and VFJ told ne the same thing. Said to get rid if the Dyno jets and go with the Keihins, put the stock needles back in and shim them and use the dynos for tooth picks. He was so right. He said he actualy got better dyno results without the Dynajet kit!
I know mine is better without it. In fact, the only part I have left is the holes I drilled in the slides. I just took it out of my signature too. Worst mod I ever wasted money on. Oh...I know many will disagree. But for me it was a waste.
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06 750 (Silver)
Dynatek CDI |TwinAir Filter | Catch Can | Precision Pro Stabilizer | Perma-Cool Oil Cooler | Diamond "G" Tie Rods & Ends | Energy Swaybar Bushings | OMI Stem Bushing | Ricochet Skid Plates | HL Bumper | Direction2 Overfenders
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March 13th, 2010, 11:59 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Salisbury, N.C.
Posts: 184
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NWKAWIERIDER
I have never seen the Dyna-junk carb kit work. The stock jets etc. are cheaper and better. There is not much that I have not tried or seen come in the shop here. I have pretty much tried it all to get mine where it is now. Like the lowering kits, I was told by all the shock manufactures that it was not possible to lower the Brute. So I come up with an idea and got my buddy to put it together because I don't weld. I have the origanal lowering kit on mine now for over 3 years.He has sold a lot of these over on Nyroc and Kawieriders. He makes them and sells them under D-rat fab.
Hopefully DPS will get the above post and get his Brute straightened out.
__________________
BF 785 Highly modded
CWR MACH 3 CAMS
68.28 RWHP ON MOTOR
NOS EQUIPPED IF NEEDED
4.7 300ft. on motor 4.3 300ft. on NOS
Head work (valves, porting,etc.) BBK Kits
Complete Engine Work
BMK Performance* (PM for more info)
MUZZY DEALER
704 637-1207
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March 14th, 2010, 03:48 AM
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#37
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flat Land fl.
Posts: 44
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If im going to shim the stock needles with washers why not leave the ones that are in there and move the clip...and how well does the EHS lid work with running through water...I dont always carry the front end up..And it seems like the bike runs better with the #40 kehlin jets in the primaries for some reason, I do get alot of what your saying, but gotta question some things to further my knowledge on this..and a 1/16 hole seems huge on a jet..
And yea the kehlin jets may be cheaper but where do you get them quickly
And you also gotta think, Im at sea level..If that makes a difference
__________________
2006 Brute 750 4x4i
Gorilla axles, 28's, Full Muzzy, K&N, DJ Jet kit, Warn 2.5 Winch, Skid Plates, 2.5" snorkel
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March 14th, 2010, 03:58 AM
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#38
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 6,012
Thanks: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute Man Kelley
NWKAWIERIDER
I have never seen the Dyna-junk carb kit work. The stock jets etc. are cheaper and better.
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I believe the kit might work for people that have a 2-position throttle...Off...and WOT. But it still take a lot of tuning. John said the needles fit the slid bodies so loose they osilate and cause irratic asperation patterns and the length is too short and the taper too fast for decent riding.
Good deal on the lowering kit. I know here are some out there and they work well.
__________________
06 750 (Silver)
Dynatek CDI |TwinAir Filter | Catch Can | Precision Pro Stabilizer | Perma-Cool Oil Cooler | Diamond "G" Tie Rods & Ends | Energy Swaybar Bushings | OMI Stem Bushing | Ricochet Skid Plates | HL Bumper | Direction2 Overfenders
Vids On Vimeo | Vids On Contour | Vids On You Tube
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March 14th, 2010, 09:58 AM
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#39
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Salisbury, N.C.
Posts: 184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPS
If im going to shim the stock needles with washers why not leave the ones that are in there and move the clip...and how well does the EHS lid work with running through water...I dont always carry the front end up..And it seems like the bike runs better with the #40 kehlin jets in the primaries for some reason, I do get alot of what your saying, but gotta question some things to further my knowledge on this..and a 1/16 hole seems huge on a jet..
And yea the kehlin jets may be cheaper but where do you get them quickly
And you also gotta think, Im at sea level..If that makes a difference
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The EHS lid works real good, the only thing about water is if your underwater over the top og the lid your going to take water in. If you got to snork it, use at least 2 inch and as few turns as possible. The mud in my blood type are pretty good.
As for the needles the that is what's so hard to get right using the dyna-jet kit.
Pilots- since your snorking you will be richer, so the 38's will be fine when you get the dyna-jets out.
If you still have the stock jets and needles you took out, use those to put back in.
Mains- They should be 153 front and 158 rear from factory, before drilling try them, since your snorking. It will take a lttle more trial and error with snorks.
If you do not snork the set up I give you above will work great. That's what I do to most all stock brutes that come in the shop. Also not far from you in Douglas Ga. I have a friend that works on a lot of Brutes and this set up works good there.
On a side note I have mine jetted as follows mains- 1/8 drilled, pilots-40, and needles shimmed 4 washers, but I have extreme head porting, 418 lift cams, and full muzzy exhaust.
__________________
BF 785 Highly modded
CWR MACH 3 CAMS
68.28 RWHP ON MOTOR
NOS EQUIPPED IF NEEDED
4.7 300ft. on motor 4.3 300ft. on NOS
Head work (valves, porting,etc.) BBK Kits
Complete Engine Work
BMK Performance* (PM for more info)
MUZZY DEALER
704 637-1207
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March 14th, 2010, 11:09 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Flat Land fl.
Posts: 44
Thanks: 1
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I got the bike with the DJ kit in it.. And Ive snorkeled it with 2.5in pipe it has (3) 90* bends in it.. I think im gonna resnorkel it through the center like the MIMB kit, I got the jetting pretty close now, but the Dynatek isnt in it yet, Ive ordered it but it hasnt come in..Think i might stick with the DJ for now..but if it becomes any bit of a pain ill be going your route
__________________
2006 Brute 750 4x4i
Gorilla axles, 28's, Full Muzzy, K&N, DJ Jet kit, Warn 2.5 Winch, Skid Plates, 2.5" snorkel
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