brute force valve clearance

bruteforlife · August 3rd, 2010, 10:06 PM

I need step by step how to adj valves on 650 brute.

NMKAWIERIDER · August 3rd, 2010, 10:50 PM

Here is a how to I posted on MIMB.

MudInMyBlood Forums - View Single Post - Valve Adjustment Help!!

DLB · April 12th, 2011, 09:09 PM

I'm going to highjack this old thread. Just attempted my first valve adjustment, and now the valves are rattling like crazy. Obviously I didn't do something right. So before I continue I want to be sure I'm using the right feeler gauge. Does this one look right for the intake?

It reads:
.004
.102
mm

I just want to be sure I'm reading it correctly...

NMKAWIERIDER · April 12th, 2011, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLB

I'm going to highjack this old thread. Just attempted my first valve adjustment, and now the valves are rattling like crazy. Obviously I didn't do something right. So before I continue I want to be sure I'm using the right feeler gauge. Does this one look right for the intake?
Attachment 3150
It reads:
.004
.102
mm

I just want to be sure I'm reading it correctly...

That's a good one. Do this though just to make sure you are on the right stroke. With the cover off the intake turn the engine over untill you see the valves push down, then by hand, keep rotating it until they come back up again or closed. Now with the sight port open rotate the engine another about half a turn until you see the timing mark show in the window and line up on the side detent/line. FT for the front and RT for the rear I believe. Then set your valves. Both the intakes and exhausts on that cylinder. Do the same for the other.

DLB · April 12th, 2011, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NMKAWIERIDER

That's a good one. Do this though just to make sure you are on the right stroke. With the cover off the intake turn the engine over untill you see the valves push down, then by hand, keep rotating it until they come back up again or closed. Now with the sight port open rotate the engine another about half a turn until you see the timing mark show in the window and line up on the side detent/line. FT for the front and RT for the rear I believe. Then set your valves. Both the intakes and exhausts on that cylinder. Do the same for the other.

Ok I tried again and got the rattling to stop, but now when I give it a little gas and let off, it drops rpm and stalls out. Does this mean the valves are too tight now?

NMKAWIERIDER · April 13th, 2011, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLB

Ok I tried again and got the rattling to stop, but now when I give it a little gas and let off, it drops rpm and stalls out. Does this mean the valves are too tight now?

Oh maybe...When you set a valve, first it has to be dead cold so not run for around 4-6 hours. Next, you want a certian feel...friction level from the contact between the valve and the rocker on the feeler guage. If you can imagine the guage is paper, sliding it out should feel like it will almost tear that paper...almost.

Try this. Reposition the cam as I outlined before. Back off the lock nut and back off the adjuster a turn or two. Then slide your feeler gauge in and with your fingers only, turn the adjuster down onto the gauge and snug it with your fingers only. See..you can not overtighten it with your fingers. Then spin the lock nut back down and while just holding the adjuster still...and don't move it at all, tighten the lock nut. That most often will give you the correct feel on the feeler gauge.

I have one that when I tighten the nut, it pulls up a bit on the threads in the rocker so it gets loose when I lock it down. That one I give a little extra twist with plyers before locking it down. Point being, what ever you have to do to make them correct, do. And its VERY important that both valves be set identical.

DLB · April 13th, 2011, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NMKAWIERIDER

Oh maybe...When you set a valve, first it has to be dead cold so not run for around 4-6 hours. Next, you want a certian feel...friction level from the contact between the valve and the rocker on the feeler guage. If you can imagine the guage is paper, sliding it out should feel like it will almost tear that paper...almost.

Try this. Reposition the cam as I outlined before. Back off the lock nut and back off the adjuster a turn or two. Then slide your feeler gauge in and with your fingers only, turn the adjuster down onto the gauge and snug it with your fingers only. See..you can not overtighten it with your fingers. Then spin the lock nut back down and while just holding the adjuster still...and don't move it at all, tighten the lock nut. That most often will give you the correct feel on the feeler gauge.

I have one that when I tighten the nut, it pulls up a bit on the threads in the rocker so it gets loose when I lock it down. That one I give a little extra twist with plyers before locking it down. Point being, what ever you have to do to make them correct, do. And its VERY important that both valves be set identical.

I appreciate the tips! All adjusted and put back together.