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post #11 of 20 Old June 24th, 2008, 01:03 AM
 
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noise from clutch

All you have to do is remove the fork right? Leave the actuator on top? And does your 2wd/4wd light flash with it off? I am downgrading my brute from 29.5's to 27's and will be changing the clutch. I thought I would try this while I am in there too.

2007 Brute Force 750, AMS aluminum rims, 29.5 Outlaws, 3000# Gorilla winch
EPI clutch kit, Moose module, HMF Utility exhaust, relocated rad
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post #12 of 20 Old June 25th, 2008, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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noise from clutch

yea i will be taking the fork out tommorow but i wanna get rid of the stupid 2wd 4wd flashing back and forth its driving me nuts will taking the fork out do it?

05 Brute 750: 11:5:1 JE PISTONS, WEBB CAMS, FULL MUZZY, VFJ STAGE 3 Clutch, 2" LIFT, COPPERHEAD, CENTRE SNORKLES, K&N, DYNO JET and DYNO TUNED. 2009 SUNBEAM RED PLASTICS. 28" ZILLAS, STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
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post #13 of 20 Old June 25th, 2008, 07:59 PM
 
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noise from clutch

No. It will still flash.

Found this on Nyroc's site:
Prairie 650 - Flashing 2wd 4wd lights
by nyroc, 2005-02-23



Page 38 of manual says:

flashing 2wd/4wd indicator lights signal a malfunction of the kawasaki engine brake control system or the selectable 2wd/4wd system. A flashing interval of 0.5 seconds indicates a malfunction with the 2wd/4wd actuator, a 1 second interval indicates the KEBC actuator is malfunctioning, a 2 second interval indicates both actuators are malfunctioning.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Apparently, the fuses under the seat could be to blame for many people's flashing lights. So, before you waste time and energy diagonosing problems with the 4x4 selector and KEBC, try this tip from OldmanWheeler:

"Pull out each fuse and take a pair of pliers and just barely twist the ends of the fuse. I also took a small screw driver and tweaked the clips in the box. The idea is to make sure the fuse fit real tight. Once you have a tight fit use a small screw driver to place die-electric grease between the fuse contacts. Once that is done I filled the cap, closed it and filled all openings. Once this was done I never had any more problems. According to the Kaw person who told me how to fix this, it's been a problem, especially


I also found this, on Nyroc's site, on how to rewire so that light will not stay flashing. I am too lazy and have just gotten used to it...

FourwheelFurry sent me this to put in the tech tips. It lets you disable the KEBC and still use the 2wd/4wd lights in the dash. The following all came from FourwheelFurry. Note that he used a dual throw relay and wired the light to the pole that is contacted when the relay is not energized. If you use a single throw relay, the light will be opposite(wrong).

I discovered this fix to the 2X4/4X4 light some time ago myself. This is a
GREAT way to fix for cheep!! I have been running NO KEBC and my 2X4/4X4
light works exactly as it should.
The relay is a simple 12Volt automotive style 5 prong relay. It can be
purchased at many auto parts stors or like I did, gotten out of a junked car
for free!!!


First... the green/white wire (that you are supposed to clip), if you ground
this wire the 4X4 will light up on the dash.

Second... the 4X4 switch (mounded on the handle bar) is a 2 wire switch to
ground. When it is in 2X4 the switch is closed (grounded) when it is in 4X4
the switch is open (ungrounded).

Third... If you connect these two wires together (green/white and green)
this will command the 4X4 to light on the dash WHEN the switch is in 2X4
mode and the dash will light 2X4 when the switch is in 4X4 mode (it operates
backwards)

Solution... I wired a simple 5 prong relay to reverse this operation an now
it works perfect. This only reports what the switch sends and not what the
controller is actually doing but I like to know when it is in 4X4 and this
is good enough.

The relay is wired as follows:

Terminal 85 - Brown wire from ignition switch plug 12V + key-on
Terminal 86 - Green wire from 4X4 handle bar switch
Terminal 87 - nothing
Terminal 87A - Green/White wire going to the dash 4X4 indicator
Terminal 30 - Chassis ground

I hooked up the relay in the front under the front fendors as it was easy to
get to all of the connections from the switch and dash and also ignition
12V. It is also well hidden however, this can be done under the seat as all
of the wires listed go to the controller.


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'03 Prairie 650 - BKP 730 kit with 2X trail/race cams, MW oil cooler, DG Snorkle and EHS air box lid, Twin Air proflow filter, Rox Risers, Pro Taper bars, Works struts, VFJ Stage 3 spider mod clutch, lightened secondary, Goodyear MT/R's on Douglas Rattlesnakes, full Muzzy - SOLD, but will ALWAYS hold a special place in my heart!
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post #14 of 20 Old June 28th, 2008, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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noise from clutch

found out the hard way today that the problem is the 2wd 4wd system i lost ability to switch in 4wd my brute is stuck in 2wd, so im assuming its the 4wd actuator that is broken should i replace it or is there more to it then that could it be wiring somewhere how do i check that, or is it usually the actuator, ive found ine at a salvage off a 2006 brute and mine is a 2005 so it should fit, and is it easy to install?

thanks guys

05 Brute 750: 11:5:1 JE PISTONS, WEBB CAMS, FULL MUZZY, VFJ STAGE 3 Clutch, 2" LIFT, COPPERHEAD, CENTRE SNORKLES, K&N, DYNO JET and DYNO TUNED. 2009 SUNBEAM RED PLASTICS. 28" ZILLAS, STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
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post #15 of 20 Old June 29th, 2008, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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noise from clutch

i turned the brute on about an hour ago and it wasnt blinking 2wd 4wd but it still wont go into 4wd at all. i took it for a short rip and it started blinking again. got it home shut it off and it wasnt blinking anymore but still no 4wd. i dissconnected the engine brake and turned ignition on and it started blinking the same intervals as it does when riding it. i just have a couple of questions if i get a dg6 from diamond g racing and bypass the engine brake will i get 4wd back there dosnt seem to be a problem with the 4x4 actuator and i love the brute with no engine brake took the fork out today. would the engine brake actuator malfunctioning cause me to lose 4x4?

thanks for the help guys

05 Brute 750: 11:5:1 JE PISTONS, WEBB CAMS, FULL MUZZY, VFJ STAGE 3 Clutch, 2" LIFT, COPPERHEAD, CENTRE SNORKLES, K&N, DYNO JET and DYNO TUNED. 2009 SUNBEAM RED PLASTICS. 28" ZILLAS, STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
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post #16 of 20 Old June 29th, 2008, 09:05 AM
 
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noise from clutch

Simple thing and you have probably already done it, but have you checked your fuses?

'14 AC Wildcat Trail XT - My new ride...
'03 Prairie 650 - BKP 730 kit with 2X trail/race cams, MW oil cooler, DG Snorkle and EHS air box lid, Twin Air proflow filter, Rox Risers, Pro Taper bars, Works struts, VFJ Stage 3 spider mod clutch, lightened secondary, Goodyear MT/R's on Douglas Rattlesnakes, full Muzzy - SOLD, but will ALWAYS hold a special place in my heart!
''15 Polaris Sportsman 850 SP, Big Gun slip on
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post #17 of 20 Old June 29th, 2008, 09:05 AM
 
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noise from clutch

Simple thing and you have probably already done it, but have you checked your fuses?

'14 AC Wildcat Trail XT - My new ride...
'03 Prairie 650 - BKP 730 kit with 2X trail/race cams, MW oil cooler, DG Snorkle and EHS air box lid, Twin Air proflow filter, Rox Risers, Pro Taper bars, Works struts, VFJ Stage 3 spider mod clutch, lightened secondary, Goodyear MT/R's on Douglas Rattlesnakes, full Muzzy - SOLD, but will ALWAYS hold a special place in my heart!
''15 Polaris Sportsman 850 SP, Big Gun slip on
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post #18 of 20 Old June 29th, 2008, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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noise from clutch

yup checked fuses and checked fuses again check continuity between them with ignition on and off too and all good gonna try dg6 from diamond g and see if it works then go from there is this a good idea?

05 Brute 750: 11:5:1 JE PISTONS, WEBB CAMS, FULL MUZZY, VFJ STAGE 3 Clutch, 2" LIFT, COPPERHEAD, CENTRE SNORKLES, K&N, DYNO JET and DYNO TUNED. 2009 SUNBEAM RED PLASTICS. 28" ZILLAS, STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
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post #19 of 20 Old June 29th, 2008, 08:19 PM
 
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noise from clutch

I took out my fork and it doesn't flash

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post #20 of 20 Old June 29th, 2008, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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noise from clutch

i did all the tests today with an ohm meter and a voltage tester and i think i have come to the conclusion that i have either a broken wire in the harness or i have to get a new 4x4 actuator. im not going to worry about the engine brake actuator because im going to bypass it with the dg6.
hope it works this is driving me nuts i hate electrical problems, i'll probley just end up putting a new wiring harness in and save myself the trouble of cutting the thing all up, anybody done this on their brute before is it easy or hard can i use an 06 or an 07 on an 05 brute thats all that seems to be available to me right now

05 Brute 750: 11:5:1 JE PISTONS, WEBB CAMS, FULL MUZZY, VFJ STAGE 3 Clutch, 2" LIFT, COPPERHEAD, CENTRE SNORKLES, K&N, DYNO JET and DYNO TUNED. 2009 SUNBEAM RED PLASTICS. 28" ZILLAS, STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES
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